The charm of Ilocos

Ilocos probably has the right to claim that it has the richest cultural heritage among the country’s provinces. Amidst political and social unrest during the Spanish colonial era and the harsh conditions of its land, which is mostly sandy and rocky, the Ilocanos have always risen above any adversity. Thus, producing hardy and industrious people, and a glorious history... Ilocos Norte, particularly, is said to be the land of our forefathers.

The Ilocano culture is live and well in Ilocos Norte. Local artisans still practice their art as visitors are provided the rare chance of witnessing their authentic works. Likewise, the province’s beauty is manifested in its sights and scenes that are uniquely Ilocano. All are impressively intact and well-preserved for generations to see.

A genteel past

Although Laoag, the capital of Ilocos Norte, has already embraced urban life, it has not completely turned its back on the old. The city provides tourists access to the comforts of modern day living through its shops, fastfood chains and movie houses but at the same time, it has maintained old structures that date back to its colonial past.

Being the capital of the region, the city has an impressive showcase of architecture of different eras, and at the core of its massive grid-planned urban area is the main city plaza, a public space dedicated solely to the functions of the state, linked to Southern Ilocandia by a bridge which spans the Laoag River. The main structures around the plaza are arranged in a manner similar to that of Vigan in Ilocos Sur where the plaza is dominated by the Provincial Capitol, built in the neo-classical style in 1918.

If you do not have the time to go around the province, the best way to get to know Ilocano culture is to visit Museo Ilocos Norte, housed in the historic "Tabacalera" warehouse. The Museo, which is nicknamed "Gameng," an Ilocano word meaning "treasure," stands as a symbol of the wealth of Ilocos Norte, its varied ethnicity and multi-faceted heritage.

Pillars of heritage

Paoay is a coastal town just south of Laoag City. An outstanding physical feature of the town is the San Augustine Church, commonly known as the "Paoay Church." It has been repaired and redecorated through the years and now boasts of an awesome facade, breathtaking from any angle.

The Church of Sarrat, at about 105 meters, is the longest in Ilocos Norte. The church complex was formerly the tribunal, the colonial counterpart of the modern-day municipal hall. It is strategically located on the slopes of a hill, which is the best vantage point for guarding its river against raiders and the flow of goods in and out of it. It follows a simple rectangular plan, like most of the Spanish-era churches in Ilocos. The church’s convento and bell tower began construction in 1669 and were completed in 1679. Rebuilt after a fire in 1817, the complex was again damaged by fire in 1882 but was rebuilt and finished in June 1896.

The symbol of the small town of Burgos is its lighthouse, one of the most visited sites here. Perched 160 meters on top of the Vigia de Nagpartian hill, the Burgos lighthouse dominates the town’s landscape and is considered the tallest structure in the province. It is also known for its Spanish name "el faro de Cabo Bojeador" (the lighthouse of Cape Bojeador), guiding vessels making the journey between the South China Sea and the Babuyanes Channel.

From the top of the lighthouse, visitors get a 365-degree view of the countryside. Aside from the lighthouse, visitors should not miss going across the highway to the coast with limestone karst formations creating dramatic views of the sea.

Northern hideaways

One of Luzon’s most popular beaches is found in Pagudpud. Often erroneously referred to as Pagudpud beach, it is Saud beach that fully deserves its fame as the hub of tourist activity in the municipality. The stretch of white sand gently slopes toward Bangui Bay. Its clear waters afford breathtaking views of the reef teeming with colorful ocean life.

Pagudpud is the north easternmost town of Ilocos Norte and was formerly a barrio of Bangui. Its name refers to a kind of grass that is commonly found near the coast called "galut-galot." The green variety of this grass is called "pagudpud." The town is the third largest in the province in terms of land area, a total of 195 square kilometers. The seven rivers that pass through the town and its fertile fields are part of Pagudpud’s charm.

Visitors to Saud will delight in the array of beach and water activities possible. Those who opt to go kayaking may also explore the other beautiful beaches that punctuate the dramatic Pagudpud coast.

A few minutes away from the Laoag International Airport is the only 5-star resort in Northern Luzon. Fort Ilocandia Resort is a Spanish Moroccan inspired villa sprawled over 77 hectares of land amidst gentle sand dunes, pine forests and two kilometers of fine sandy beach facing the South China Sea. The hotel, which opened in 1983, is complete with facilities such as suites, deluxe and superior rooms luxuriously designed to provide absolute satisfaction for travellers. Aside from the serene and spotless beach where you can enjoy water sports activities, it also has a world-class 18-hole golf course, KTV and disco bar, specialty restaurants and a casino.

Gastronomic delights

Most of Ilocano dishes are either salty or bitter that is why Ilocanos eat a lot of rice. And what goes well with rice are two of the most popular meat products here, "longganisa" and "bagnet." You can find these in every market and in the newest hangout in Laoag City, the "Dap-ayan ti Ilocos Norte", which houses a food court and some souvenir stalls selling abel cloth, pottery, rattan, metal craft, tobacco, garlic, biscocho, corniks, and tupig.

After the long walks of exploring Ilocos, it’s time to indulge in the ultimate Ilocano snack, the empanada, a deep-fried meat pie made from orange-colored dough and a variety of fillings. The main filling for this cheap treat is a mixture of egg and bits of longganisa. The best place for these meat pies is the town plaza food court in Batac. For a most satisfying empanada experience, sprinkle generous amounts of "sukang Iloko" with every bite and have an ice-cold soda to go with it.

[Cape Bojeador Lighthouse]