Can’t get enough of shooting the rapids

Pagsanjan has long been a favored destination of both local and foreign tourists because of its proximity to Manila. The town calls itself the "Tourist Capital of Laguna," and its claim to fame are its waterfalls.

The town lies at the confluence of two rivers, the Balanac and the Bumbungan. Legend has it that the name of the town was derived from the Tagalog word "Pinagsangahan" meaning "juncture."

Founded in 1578 by a Spanish Franciscan friar, Pagsanjan quickly became a center for local trade because of its strategic location. Pagsanjan prospered and that long period of prosperity remains to be evident until now.

In 1975, Pagsanjan was thrust into the limelight when it was chosen as the location of "Apocalypse Now", a film by Francis Ford Coppola. Since then, the town has enjoyed so much attention and it has become one of the country’s leading travel destinations.

SHOOTING THE RAPIDS

A ride to the falls, or what they call here as "shooting the rapids", is the highlight of any trip to the town. Most hotels along the river provide secure parking and experienced boatmen.

A boat is steered by two brawny boatmen ready to take on two to three passengers. The journey begins along the tranquil headwaters of the river that skirts the town. But the pace soon picks up as the boat passes through magnificent scenery that combines tropical gorges with rainforest and river wildlife.

There are at least 16 rapids or turbulent waters that the boat has to go through. Going upstream, the boatmen will get down on these rapids and push the boat,or use their feet to kick the rocks and propel the boat upstream. In places where the rocks are too many and the water is too shallow, steel pipes are placed transversally at proper intervals so that the boat glide over these pipes.

The real excitement is on the boat’s return trip - the real "shooting the rapids". Boatmen skillfully maneuver the boat between rocks, alternately using their paddle and their feet. There are places that the rapids are on a curve but boatmen guide the boat through it easily. If the paddle is not enough to steer, the boatmen’s feet surely will.

The lower part of the river is slow and meandering with homes and palm trees crowding the banks. It doesn’t take long before the river valley turns into a deep gorge, with a rainforest canopy, and the quiet waters become cascading rapids.

Mang Henry, our bangkero, often jumps out of the boat to manipulate it between boulders while dodging other boats on their way down. This provides almost as much entertainment as the iridescent birds, dragonflies and butterflies fluttering overhead.

19 FALLS

Before reaching the gorgeous Pagsanjan falls, one may behold many minifalls. We were told by Mang Henry that there are a lot more especially in the rainy season, 19 to be exact, most bearing no names. The first of these mini-falls is the Talahib falls, which has a souvenir shop, food stalls and a pay restroom. Farther are the Kaluykuy falls and the misty Bridal Veil falls.

After almost an hour of difficult journey upstream, during which the boatmen have to drag the banca, the piece d’ resistance emerges in view -- the enchanting Pagsanjan falls, with waters cascading down a 300foot high rocky cliff. The echoes of the falling waters fill the air, much like a symphonic thunder.

The gorge, the gateway to the falls, is hemmed in by rocky cliffs, lush with tropical vegetation such as wild orchids, ferns and vines. From the boat, we transferred to a bamboo raft which brought us directly under the falls! The water was really cold, we felt like we were in the middle of a super typhoon holding tightly to a rope so we wouldn’t fall off.

Behind the curtain of cascading waters is the Devil’s Cave, so named because its opening looks like the profile of a devil’s face. The base of Pagsanjan falls is a huge natural swimming pool. The boatmen usually manage only one trip a day, so tourists are free to linger here.

"The rapids are exciting at any time," said Mang Henry. "But if you have the choice, visit during the rainy season, between the months of August and September, when the river levels are at their highest and the rapids, even more thrilling," he added.

The rapids, winding through boulders and roaring downstream with the velocity of an express railway train, are frightening to see. Those who are looking for a heart racing and gut wrenching experience, Pagsanjan’s shooting the rapids will not disappoint you. We were shamelessly shrieking all throughout.

Caveat: just beware of unaccredited boatmen. It would be best to avail of your hotel’s package boat tours as you are assured of your safety. Also, as a little act of gratitude for the boatmen’s hardwork, giving them a little tip wouldn’t hurt.