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The old grandeur and new charm of Taal
Source: Manila Bulletin
Author: Ivy Lisa F. Mendoza
Date: 2007-07-08
 
A cradle of noble heroes and centuries-old churches, tranquil Taal is Batangas province’s oldest town, wielding a power to transport visitors back to an old world charm that is much lost in today’s urban jungle.


Taal is one of the only two remaining most culturally preserved sites of the Spanish colonial era. The other is Vigan in Ilocos Sur.

The St. Martin de Tours Basilica, for instance, sends tourists in awe with its sheer size alone. Built in 1575 and destroyed during the eruption of the Taal volcano in 1754 and the big earthquake in 1849, the church was rebuilt in 1856 and was finished in 1865. It is now reputed to be the biggest Catholic church in Southeast Asia, attracting tourists and pilgrims with its baroque facade, made more wonderful by a patina that speaks only of history and endurance.

Another source of Taal’s pride is the church and sanctuary of Our Lady of Caysasay, a stone’s throw away from the basilica. Declared a National Shrine, the church is home to priceless Spanish era relics including the 27-centimeter image of the Virgin Mary which was fished out of the waters, the Augustinian emblems engraved on the communion rails, and the ornately carved holy water receptacle.


THE OLD FORBES PARK

Taal elders take pride in saying that their town was the "Forbes Park" of yore, where the province’s rich and famous converged. This thus explains the stately ancestral homes that line the town’s streets. All palatial in size and design, some of the houses are still beautifully preserved, while some are left for time and destiny to take care of.

Amadis Ma. Guerrero in "Traveler’s Choice" wrote: Through the decades, the sitios and barrios — like Lemery, Bauan, San Nicolas, Santa Teresita, San Luis and Alitagtag — became independent towns; and Taal became a small town in Manila, leaving their stately mansions in the care of their helpers."

Unmistakeably hers, the house of Marcela Marino de Agoncillo has bright Philippine flags lining the courtyard. Why not when this woman, while in exile in Hong Kong with husband Felipe, was the one who sewed the flag upon the request of Gen. Emilio Aguinaldo. This was the flag that was proudly waved at the inauguration of the First Philippine Republic on June 12, 1898. Built in the 17th century, Agoncillo’s shrine houses antique books in English, Tagalog and French and is now under the administration of the National Historical Institute (NHI).

The art-deco inspired Leon Apacible house, also under the care of the NHI, is the repository of turnofthe-century relics, 400year old furniture, an 18thcentury chandelier, gilded mirrors, and other precious antiques and artifacts.

The Ylagan-De la Rosa ancestral house was constructed in the late Spanish period. It is still used by the descendants as a private residence and special visits can be arranged.

Around the town square in front of the Basilica are more old houses in various state of dilapidation. We even saw one re-painted in horrible pink and red!


LOST ART?

While driving around the town looking for our fix of steaming bulalo, we decided to make a short stop at a balisong shop. Actually, one of the few balisong shops that line the street as the number has dwindled with the passing of time.

Balisong is a folding butterfly knife that has its origins in Batangas. When closed, the blade is hidden within the handles. Its most popular variety is the vente nueve (29) because of its lethal 29-centimeter length.

Sixty-seven year old Ka Eddie tends to his balisong shop that doubles as a sarisari store. He said he has been crafting balisongs and other kinds of knives since he was 20 years old but the art seems lost now. In his lifetime though, he has trained a couple of balisong craftsmen whom he said could very well continue the art.

"Mahal na kasi ang materyales. Yung steel and brass, kaya wala nang masyadong gumagawa," laments Ka Eddie, while trying to show us the many variations of the balisong. (The materials such as steel and brass have become expensive that’s why there are only a few ones making the knives)

And then Ka Eddie said the unthinkable: "Eto galing China," he says while showing us a more finelycrafted knife. "Pinapayagan na din kasi ng gobyernong ipasok ito dito sa ating bansa." (This one is from China. The government now allows the importation of these knives.)

Balisongs from China sold in Taal, Batangas? But Ka Eddie qualifies "Pero syempre mas maganda pa din yung gawa dito kasi hand-made. Yung sa China kasi machinemade."

Nevertheless, people still leave Taal, carrying with them as souvenirs a couple of balisongs, as well as embroidered items which are also identified with the town of Taal.


THE NEW PHASE OF TAAL

Amid all this old world charm is a stunning residential development project called Buckingham Hills, which complements the glory and grandeur of this richly historical town in the Southern Tagalog.

This development is an upscale community that sits on a 19-hectare estate offering housing lots to residents of Taal and nearby municipalities. Reputed land developer Carmon Ventures and Resources Development Corp. (CVRDC) with its president Roy Bagatsing takes pride in making the project another distinctive landmark in this idyllic town.

Could this be the start of the return to the reputation of being the old Forbes Park of the South?

Probably, with Buckingham Hills’ luxurious homes, imposing gate, and modern facilities like an all purpose clubhouse, swimming pools, basketball court, tennis court and well-manicured open spaces and sidewalks, this is possible. In fact, many natives of Taal as well as of neighboring towns, have proudly made the gated community of Buckingham Hills their new home.

Whether it’s the age old basilica, the ancestral homes, or the elegant houses that now sprout prominently in the town plaza periphery, Taal’s old world charm, coupled with its modern appeal, continue to draw people and make them want to hang around amid its beauty and splendor.


[ Leon Apacible Historical Landmark Wiki | Our Lady of Caysasay Church and Shrine Wiki ]

 

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