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Discovering Iloilo City
Source: Manila Bulletin
Author: - - -
Date: 2009-11-07
 
As a first-time visitor to Iloilo City, my knowledge about the place is practically zero except for the fact that chicken inasal and batchoy are delicious food that supposedly came from that place. So when the Iloilo Economic Development Foundation Inc. invited the media for a 3-day familiarization tour of the city, I was raring to go, eager to discover what Iloilo is all about.

Iloilo is about food

Iloilo as I would come to discover is really about food. The Lingoes love to eat, nay they live to eat. For them eating is a way of life. Unlike in Manila where we often wolf down our meals to get on with our other activities, in Iloilo, meals are relished and seen as a social event among family and friends — a time to catch up on each other’s lives over servings of binnacle and nasal. During our lunches and dinners, we (writers from Manila) would already be getting our desserts while our Lingo friends seemed to be just getting warmed up. Our tour guide Eugene Tamerlane shares how it is in their house during weekend lunches — they would linger on the dining table way after lunch sharing stories, that before they realize it, they’d already be having marina, then later after that supper. He adds that in Iloilo they rarely use the sala to entertain guests, instead they just whisk them off into the dining room for a sumptuous meal or maybe a marina of sumac dipped in muscovite and home-made hot chocolate (made from tableau or cocoa tablets and endlessly stirred with a batgirl).

Another thing that makes Lingo cuisine different from other places like Manila became more evident on our third meal. I just realized none of our gracious hosts served us anything that’s fried, only broiled, steamed or grilled. Yes, the Lingoes love their food grilled. While grilling is something we do at home during special occasions, in Iloilo they grill on a daily basis. The grill, whether it’s a Hibachi or just an old chicken wire on top of rocks, is an integral part of the Lingo dirty kitchen. From fish to clams to the ubiquitous chicken inasal that can be found in restaurants on every block, the Ilonggos like them smoked and browned to perfection. Speaking of which, the Ilonggos are crazy about chicken too — more than pork or beef. Stands to reason that while in Manila Andok’s Lechon is but a small kiosk selling take-aways, in Iloilo it’s a huge semi open restaurant that’s always packed with people come dinner time. And not to mention that Mang Inasal, now easily the most popular and biggest grilled chicken restaurant chain in the country originated from Iloilo.

Other original Ilonggo specialties that have gained national popularity are pansit molo from the district of Molo and La Paz batchoy from the district of La Paz. Try Deco’s version of batchoy together with puto for a truly satisfying merienda. While there, you can also get your pasalubong from their store next door where you can choose from a wide array of Ilonggo pastries and delicacies.

For authentic chicken inasal, try Tatoy’s Manukan where they use only native chicken and is one of the more popular restaurants frequented by politicians and celebrities. Just a few meters away is Breakthrough which specializes in seafood specialties such as lobsters, blue crabs and various clams and shellfish that are mostly found in this region. It is situated along the beach so you’ll be dining amidst the sounds of the waves and the scent of the sea breeze, enhancing your tropical dining experience.

They know how to have a good time

If you think Iloilo has nothing to offer like Manila by way of nightlife, you’d be surprised. Though the Ilonggos appear to be simpler and more conservative than the Manila folks, it does not mean that they don’t know how to have a good time.

Head over to Smallville, their smaller version of Eastwood City to sample the food and entertainment provided by the different restaurants and bars that make up this hip and happening complex. From dining, to disco, to videoke or live bands, you only need to walk around to find the place that’s up your alley. The place is crawling with families, students, and employees every night and closes later on weekends.

There is no Starbucks here, but they have their own Iloilo - based Coffeebreak which is not only cheaper but has the ambiance and taste that will give the franchised coffee shops a run for their money. Coffebreak along with the other restaurants in the same area are the brainchild of restaurateur whiz Johnny Que who is also behind Waffle Time which started in Iloilo and is now 423 outlets strong all over the Philippines.

Iloilo is more urban than you think

Iloilo City is a fast - growing metropolis fueled by the increasing number of Business Processing and Outsourcing (BPOs)/ call centers that have set up shop in the city. As the province’s educational hub, with 13 colleges and universities, Iloilo becomes an ideal investment site for skills-required and English-proficient job employments. Though Iloilo City may not have the high-rise buildings of Makati, it is not that far behind in terms of infrastructures, facilities, and standards of living either. In some aspects Iloilo is even better off. Iloilo City seems to have lesser traffic, wider streets, lesser potholes and garbage and a cleaner waterway. I did not find any shanties or squatters within the city either. With better infrastructures and a new coal - powered plant set for completion in 2010, Iloilo is poised to attract even more investors and visitors.

A jump-off point to Guimaras

With a modern airport in Sta. Barbara and the city being strategically located, Iloilo stands as a gateway and jump-off point to other tourist destinations. Just 15 minutes from the Iloilo wharf by boat is the island of Guimaras, known for its export quality mangoes, pristine beaches and scenic landscapes. Alubihod Beach in Nueva Valencia is the more popular resort known for its white sand and clear water ideal for swimming and other water activities. When in Guimaras be sure to drop by the Trappist Monastery where you can ask for the monks’ blessing and you can get dried mangos, jams, jellies made from fruits they grow and harvest themselves.

Iloilo’s rich cultural heritage

Iloilo’s rich cultural heritage can be best gleaned from the old churches, mansions, and buildings that are evidence of the city’s once glorious past of being the textile capital of the Philippines more than a century ago. Architecture students will have a field day studying the old buildings along Calle Real that retained the various design standards of the time: art deco, Spanish, European, etc. Nelly’s garden in Jaro is one of the finest examples of residential mansions owned by the most prominent families of the province. The mansion’s facade looks like it was cut out of a postcard and looks even better when lit up for Christmas. Jaro Cathedral and Molo Church are not only magnificent structures, with Jaro having its Belfry separate and across the street and Molo with its Neo-Gothic style, but they are also unique because Jaro Cathedral only houses male saint sculptures while Molo as its counterpart only has female saints.

My first Iloilo City experience was a journey of discovery. I look forward to going back to experience the Dinagyang Festival in January as three days are not enough time to really know Iloilo… and there’s a lot more to discover.

[ Iloilo City Wiki ]

 

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