The jewel that is Negros Oriental

What looks like a dwarf’s boot in the more than 7,100 islands of the Philippines is actually Negros Oriental which forms part of Negros Island, the fourth largest in the Philippines. Legend has it that the boot-shaped island was once part of Mindanao, and, like a shoe that’s worn off, it was cut off from the region either by continental drift or the rising waters at the end of the ice age.

Negros Oriental is the south-eastern half of the island of Negros with Negros Occidental comprising the western half. A chain of rugged mountains separates them. Negros Oriental faces Cebu to the east across the Tañon Strait and Siquijor to the south-east while Sulu Sea borders it to the south.

The capital of Negros Oriental is Dumaguete City, which Dr. Jose P. Rizal called the “City of Gentle People”. On the invitation of Negros Oriental Governor Emilio C. Macias II and the Provincial Tourism Office, this writer recently had the pleasure of experiencing how gentle Dumagueteños are.

Groove to the beat of Buglasan

For tourists visiting the province on the third week of October, it’s a must to visit Dumaguete City and watch the local dance, make merriment, and celebrate their province’s many cultures and beliefs in a festival called Buglasan.

The raw energy is palpable as dancers swirl in their ruffled skirts and lift their gold-painted baskets. Other dancers garbed in bat or monkey suits and with painted faces appear more gruesome. The younger ones are dressed in jewel-tone elfish costumes, with huge, pointed ears attached to them. As they dance, they smile and for those with roles to carry out such as the angel and devil, their faces look serious as they dance to the beat, mimicking the moves of those locked in battle.

Alternately sweating under the heat of the sun and getting wet because of the rain, Dumagueteños again invaded the streets of Dumaguete City this year to witness this grand celebration called the Buglasan.

Dubbed as the Festival of Festivals of Negros Oriental, the Buglasan Festival first started in 1981 when the province needed a group to represent it in Former First Lady Imelda R. Marcos’ Folk Arts Festival. The word “Buglasan” actually came from the word “Buglas,” which is described as “tall, Napier-like reeds.” These reeds filled up an entire island of Negros, thus, people from nearby islands began calling the place Buglas.

“Buglasan is a cultural and economic activity of the province of Negros Oriental that unifies the Local Government Units in preserving its cultural heritage and present with pride its products and tourist destinations,” explains Mariant Escaño-Villegas, Director General Board Member of Buglasan.

Negros Oriental is comprised of 20 municipalities and five cities. During the Festival of Festivals Showdown, the different cities and municipalities compete with each other in terms of choreography, costumes, and props.

The Libod-Sayaw of Bindoy was created to promote the rich traditions of the municipality. The opening of their dance had young girls offering the public with bodbod, a special delicacy made of sticky sweet rice. Their dance showed the arduous preparation involved in the creation of the bodbod, but instead of sporting pained expressions on their faces, the dancers were all aglow, as if showing just how proud they are of their product.

The municipality of Jimalalud is known for its strong Hambabalud trees. Their Hambabalud Festival pays tribute to Mother Nature, to thank her for protecting their municipality from floods and typhoons. They have even built majestic trees as props and created an image of their patron saint, Sto. Niño.

Canlaon City, on the other hand, is noted because of the Kanlaon Volcano. Legend has it that the volcano sprouted from the graves of two tragic characters: Warrior Kan and Princess Laon. The king and queen of Canlaon City reenacted the sad fate of the lovers, and touched the hearts of the crowd when a dying Kan tried to reach his princess Laon who died in battle.

One of the more intriguing municipalities is Mabinay, which is known as the “Cave Town” of Negros. Because of its caves and animals, Mabinay has the potential to create interesting props, and this year, it did not disappoint with its make-believe caves that appeared life-like and haunting.

Not the Last Resort

Dauin is popular for being the province’s “Resort Town.” But before this, the people of Dauin did not appreciate their town’s natural wonders. Instead, they cut off their trees and blamed her for every bad thing that happened to them. They later regretted cutting down the trees for floods came and destroyed their crops and killed their people. But a visit from a galawin, or an elf, taught them to love nature and replant the trees they chopped down.

A must visit in Dauin is the Bahura Beach Resort and Spa which prides itself in having a wide range of outdoor activities. Resort Manager Ronnie Sta. Ana said the rooms in the resort are defined by the powerful color of red which is a welcome contrast to the serene colors of the sea. Bahura has meticulously preserved its corals and reefs, and just a few meters away from shore, these corals and reefs are already within reach. It’s best to watch out for sea turtles and a variety of small fishes. Moreover, when the morning sun hits the clear waters at Bahura, the vibrancy of sea life truly comes alive.

Though fairly new, Atmosphere Resort, which is owned by British couple Matthew and Gabrielle Holder, is already one of the town’s more impressive resorts. Prices here might be a bit steep, but the resort makes up for it with luxurious accommodations and exceptional facilities.

Divers with a taste for the good life will appreciate what the resort describes as their “dive center, designed by divers for divers.” They also offer daily diving trips to Apo Island and all of Dauin’s marine sanctuary. After a tiring day of exploring the sea, divers can enjoy lying in hammocks strategically placed outside resort rooms or in beds covered in Egyptian cotton linen.

Bring Home the Art

It’s almost impossible to visit the province without buying anything for Negros Oriental is home to beautiful handicrafts and interesting wares. At the Sidlakang Negros Village, several booths were set up representing the cities and municipalities of the province.

Nearby island Siquijor has one of the more interesting booths. Known for its mystical practices, the people of Siquijor are sworn by most to create the most effective kulams and anting-antings. The booth sells bracelets worth Php 15.00 that are known to block “usog.” Wooden crosses known to ward off evil spirits and protect the bearer are sold for Php 500.00.

Naturally, the booth of Bindoy offers their bodbod, which could be served at their restaurant or taken home. They also sell hot chocolate tablets which would go well with the delicacy. Bais sells danggit, while Sibulan has dried fruits.

Aside from the booths at Sidlakang Negros Village, a must-visit is Negros Oriental Arts and Heritage (NOAH). The exteriors of NOAH is reminiscent of Snow White’s house in the classic Disney fairy tale, and inside the place lies exquisitely crafted wooden furniture, stone carvings, as well as an assortment of knick-knacks, ranging from jewelry to jewelry cases.

Negros Oriental has long made a niche as a tourist destination in the country, what with its luxurious resorts and picturesque mountains and lakes. But to know its history and appreciate its culture would further elevate one’s experience in the province.

[ Dumaguete Springs Wiki | Bahura Resort and Spa Wiki ]