Up Close and Personal with Mayon

As a fiercely proud Dabawenya, I can be arrogant about my roots when speaking of natural wonders. I tell friends that Mindanao is a top destination because we have the white beaches, the Philippine Eagle, the pygmy forest in Mount Hamiguitan, numerous waterfalls you can’t count by your fingers, the durian farms, freshest seafood, freshest air, and the tallest, most majestic peak in the country, Mount Apo. I visit a place, I tell myself, oh we have this back home, and more.

Then I get this invitation to a tour from the kindly Mayor Rosal of Legazpi City. The only link I have to this far off destination is a dear ex-boyfriend who used to call long distance to his family each time Mount Mayon threatened to erupt. I flew in via connecting Davao-Manila-Legazpi route just to see my textbook volcano up close. I got more than what I bargained for.

Since I set foot at Legazpi’s airport, it took all the discipline I could muster not to continuously gawk at the powerful presence looming before me in all its postcard perfect stance. Everywhere my van went on a city tour, Mayon showed up on my window rising prominently as backdrop to a rustic setting (a carabao bathing in a river), or an urban vista (rows of buildings and concrete roads). I just kept clicking away, in a hypnotic stupor.

Mayon Volcano is the Philippines’ most active stratovolcano, considered to be the world’s most perfectly formed volcano for its symmetrical cone. Its upper slopes are steep averaging 35-40 degrees and are capped by a small summit crater whose tip is blackened from constant hot activity. On its sides cling layers of lava and other volcanic material. Mayon rises at 2,463 m (8,081 ft) and is the central feature of Albay Province, of which Legazpi City is the capital, about 300-km southeast of Manila. The dangerous beauty is part of the Pacific Ring of Fire. A research station (PHIVOLCS) is located about one-third of the way up that is accessible by road and is the jump-off point for climbers. Its last recorded eruption was in December 2009, when photographers flocked to capture its fiery display of wrath.

The mystical Mayon, whose legend is about “Daragang Magayon” (beautiful maiden), was a candidate of the New Seven Wonders of the World in 2008. It did not make it to the top 25 and instead gave way to our Puerto Princesa’s Underground River.

I visited the Cagsawa Ruins, the old Daraga Church, stayed in Sun West Companies’ Hotel de Venezia and Hotel Ellis, dined with Mayor Noel Rosal (after nine years of public service, he turns over his reign to pretty wife Geraldine, who won the recent election hands down), marveled over the zipline at Lignon Hill, strolled down the new lifestyle hub of Embarcadero, and stayed in the posh and beautiful Misibis Bay Resort. Although I also went there for exciting activities I cannot disclose for now, my stay was highlighted by the best invitation I have ever received by far.

When Misibis Aviation offered me a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to ride a four-seater chopper for a special flight to come close to my dream volcano, I swooned at the idea. More because an hour’s aerial package tour actually costs a whooping P70,000. On a perfect morning, we slowly ascended to a height of more than 7,000 feet until we leveled up to its smoking crater. The living mountain has marked slopes, gullies, and rocky terrains that spelled danger in every twist and turn of your climb. For a photographer in the air, the patterns were heavenly.

My partner Rhonson Ng had climbed Mayon years ago and reached its crater. He said it was a technically difficult terrain to challenge. When they reached the peak, the mountain suddenly rumbled and their guide ran for life, while they followed suit. The pilot warned that we were at alert level 2 and wouldn’t fly closer lest we faint from the strong fumes of sulphur. At night lava glow is said to be seen at its tip, indicating moderate unrest.

In an interview with former Mayor Noel Rosal, I asked how he was able to develop tourism impressively considering the unstable environment. He launched into an enthusiastic discussion of maximizing support from all sectors. He told me what is altogether strange and beautiful about Mayon lately. “It used to erupt every ten years or more. Now it acts up every four years. And as it erupts it continuously heals itself back into its perfect shape.”

I couldn’t agree more. With two cameras in tow up there, I withstood the chill as I reached out to capture the crevice bellowing ashy smoke. Viewing this divine creation will last me a lifetime of gratitude. It was a blessing and an emotionally humbling experience to be so close to perfection, making my role as writer and photographer even more significant now that I value it more.

Special thanks to Mayor Noel and Geraldine Rosal of Legazpi City, Ian Varona of Misibis Resort, International Publicist Joyce Ramirez for introducing me to new friends and almost twin sister Rubi de Vera, and Sun West Corporation for my aerial exploration and accommodation.

[ Legazpi Airport Wiki | Mayon Volcano Wiki ]