Banaue Rice Terraces at close range: More than what travel books describe

RACHEL S. CASTRO

(FIRST OF TWO PARTS)

One bright and lovely day, I found myself wishing to be an Ifugao more

than anyone else.

The magnificent view of the Banaue Rice Terraces before me was just what I

needed to make me yearn to belong to the Ifugao tribe, the builders of the

millennia-dated terraces. Indeed, it was more than what history and travel

books describe. Having to walk on the elevatednarrow path (about a foot in

width) of the rice paddies was enough to give me a different kind of high. As if

in another world, I felt the tranquility and vastness of the place. Yet it did not

make me feel small and insignificant. It even gave me a sense of fulfillment

and pride for being able to climb the "stairways to the skies."

I, along with a group of journalists were brought to Banaue by the Philippine

Tourism Authority (PTA) through its Barkadahan sa Turismo project. All first

timers, we were excited with the familiarization tour conducted by PTA public

relations chief Alice Jane and company.

It took our motorcoach nine hours to reach Banaue from Manila. Not quite

exciting, but with the gracious hospitality of Ms. Jane and company and the

three films we watched on board, we were all able to bear the long trip. As for

me, the longer I've waited, the more eager I was to see and experience this

once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

Bounded on the north by Mt. Province, on

the east of Isabela, Cordillera on the west

and Benguet on the southwest, the Ifugao

province whose capital is Banaue has a

land area of 2,517 sq. kilometers. It is

accessible thru a 9-hour Dangwa bus ride

from Manila to Banaue. Pantranco buses

stop at Lagawe. From here, travelers can

board a jeepney to Banaue.

The Ifugaos or "People of the Skylands," as they are commonly referred to,

have carved by hands the gigantic rice terraces more than 3,000 years ago.

Considered as the eighth wonder of the world, these terraces encompasses

an area of 4,000 feet above sea level. It is said that its length if put end to end

would encircle half of the globe. And its stones carried from the river banks to

wall the terraces surpasses the weight of the stones used to built the ancient

Pyramids of Egypt.

The next day, we ventured early morning to the Hapao terraces which is

located nine kilometers from the poblacion Hungduan. Before the trek, we

chanced upon a local named Dolores Melong whose husband owns a part of

the Hapao terraces. She said that these terraces are owned by different

families who inherited it from their ancestors. The Ifugaos plant in January and

harvest in June and July. We've also learned that the women do most of the

work while the men only work on the stone walls and carry the harvested

grains from the fields. This practice has long been observed thousands of

years ago by their forefathers.

By the time we went down the 165

concrete steps to the rice paddies, all

were already very eager and excited. A

fellow journalist, Erman who was so

eager to get ahead of us got his first

taste of the terraces when his left foot

accidentally got stucked into the rice

paddies as he was overtaking another

trekker ahead of him. Maan of MOD and

many others followed suit. Fortunately, I passed this feet dipping ceremony

but not entirely exempted myself from any faux pas. As we approached the

Nagawa brook in the middle of the terraces, I accidentally slipped on one of

the odd-shaped stone steps and turned out embracing one of them, clinging

on for dear life. But the timing and strength of Robert Jaworski Aba?o of the

Inquirer (yes, his father's idol is Jawo) quickly came to my rescue. So far, that

was the first and last of my "adventures." Congee, another Bulletin reporter

emerged the winner as her white sneakers did not acquire even a single

splotch of mud. Talk about style and poise.

After lunch, we left Hapao and headed to the Banaue Museum. The items on

display belonged mostly to a German American anthropologist named Bayer,

grandfather of the museum curator. Among these are heirloom jars,

necklaces, a model of an Ifugao house, ritual boxes, gongs, sorcery objects, a

rainscape made of course grass, baskets, bags and an Ifugao coffin. Next

stop was the Banaue Viewpoint, the best place to take pictures of the

terraces. Most of us also bought pasalubong from the shops surrounding the

place.

(To be concluded)