The shark dishes of Samar

THERE'S something about sharks that

make us shudder. It's the thought of

being snapped by their strong jaws

and razor-sharp teeth; and of those

movies showing them as ferocious man-eaters.

But not all sharks attack humans. Of about 400 known species

of sharks, most are fish eaters. The biggest of the species are

the harmless, plankton-feeding whale sharks that are now

endangered.

Sharks are caught for their economic value. The black deep-sea

shark's liver has great medicinal value. Shark's fins make up that

famous soup.

And if there are man-eating

sharks, there are also

shark-eating men.

Filipinos are not usually fond

of shark's meat. But among the

people of Samar Island, shark is

a favorite kinilaw dish.

Sharks may be malansa (smells

putrid), but not if the fish is

fresh and well-prepared. Old

folk in Catbalogan describe

kinilaw nga pating as de klase, meaning it's one of the best

kinilaw dishes.

Many Samarnons say shark kinilaw tastes better than the

popular kinilaw nga tangigue. They point out that tangigue

meat is too soft, while shark's meat is cartilaginous and has a

distinct flavor.

Drinkers swear that shark kinilaw is simply divine as sumsuman

(pulutan in Tagalog). They say it goes well with tuba, the native

coconut wine.

Early historians had noted that the Bisayans were good

drinkers, and the prudent among them usually partook of

sumsuman with the wine. Today's Samarnons still practice this

''lining of the belly with food'' before and during a drinking

spree.

Sharks that Samarnons eat, however, are only those of small and

medium sizes. These are the putongan that have dark fins or the

kudosan or hammerhead species. Bigger sharks are not eaten

because these are reportedly malansa and can really be

man-eaters.

Cooking process

Though a favorite dish, kinilaw nga pating is not a common

fare on the Samarnons' drinking or eating table. Sharks are

seldom sold in the market today; if there are any, only a few are

available. This may be the reason why this dish is served

nowadays only during special occasions.

Making shark kinilaw is quite different from the preparation of

other similar dishes. The coconut milk has to be heated first

over fire before it is mixed with the meat. The shark's body, after

the entrails are removed, has to be scalded quickly in hot water.

This makes it easy to remove the small, tooth-like scales.

The cleaned shark meat is cut into bite sizes and placed in a

container. Salt, ginger and vinegar are added. After a while, the

meat pieces are scooped with both hands and squeezed hard

between the palms to remove the fishy odor. This is done twice

or thrice.

The heated coconut milk, with peppercorn added, is left to cool.

Finally, the thick sauce is poured into the meat and mixed. Sliced

onions are added as garnishing.

Linabog

Shark is not only prepared as sumsuman by Samarnons. It can

also be eaten as viand and goes well with cooked rice, corn or

root crop. The delectable meat that is mixed in rich coconut milk

and spices is an appetizing dish.

Another shark dish called linabog is popular on the island. It is

prepared by adding shredded shark meat to sauteed onions,

tomatoes and ginger. Vinegar and seasonings are added to the

mixture, which is then cooked until done.

Shark dish can be plain, like tinola (boiled) with camote tops, or

it can simply be fried.

This writer had been able to taste these meaty shark dishes

years ago in the island-town of Sto. Niqo, which is inhabited by

Cebuano-speaking people. The host explained that the shark

dishes were not malansa because the shark meat was fresh

when cooked.

Surprisingly, shark dishes are not popular in nearby Leyte, Cebu

and Bohol. The people find it weird eating sharks. But the

Samarnons' taste buds are already familiar to the food that had

nourished their forbears.

A different dish

It is not known when and how shark dishes became part of the

Samarnon cuisine. Surely, it is not because the early Samarnons

wanted to prove they are indeed maisog (courageous) that they

could take any challenge--either for a fight or to eat a man-eater.

Some locals think that it was the early Samarnons' quest for a

different dish that could go well with their native wine that led

them concoct shark dishes. Also, sharks used to abound in their

seas and were caught only with the use of hooks.

Sharks dishes, however, are not the weirdest among the

Samarnons' sumsuman. This writer had the chance to watch with

awe some drinkers as they swallow worm-like creatures

alongside with their gin, beer or tuba.

These creatures are called the sasing and tamilok. The first are

found beneath the sand of seashores; the second are borers of

bakhaw (mangroves). These are eaten after their insides are

removed and are dipped in vinegar or calamansi juice.

Samarnons will readily admit that eating the worm-like creatures

is indeed outlandish, but not the feasting on shark dishes.

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