OUT OF AFRICA Thrilling adventure on the savannah /2

Hellsgate

After the beautiful wedding of Miguel and Fabiola, we prepared

for our first ''mini-safari''--a venture into Hellsgate National Park.

Even as you enter the place and behold the natural rock

formations of the surrounding cliffs, you will be awed by the

wonderful work of the Divine Hand, and nature's collaboration.

The name Hellsgate comes from the many openings or ''craters''

spewing steam from the bowels of the earth. You'd think there

were jets roaring nearby, but later you'd discover that the

powerful sound comes from the steam pushing out of the holes

pocking the hillsides.

Zebras, warthogs, and secretary birds roam Hellsgate, which,

incidentally, is where the female lion cub Elsa (of the movie

''Born Free'') was found.

The next day, we started in the early morning toward Lake

Nakuru, one of Africa's wetlands which teem with pelicans,

storks and numerous other birds, and, of course,

hippopotamuses that stay in the water most of the day and

emerge at night to look for food.

I was surprised to learn that the hippo is considered one of the

world's most dangerous animals. More people have been killed

by hippos than, say, lions. They are fiercely territorial animals,

and simply attack when you're in their way. One bite by their

enormous mouths, and limbs are easily snapped off.

There are patches of forested areas where I saw my first white

rhinoceros, and also giraffes, baboons, monkeys, zebras,

wildebeests, gazelles and impalas.

Abercombie and Kent provides each group an English-speaking

driver who also serves as ''spotter'' and guide. We decided to

look for lions and leopards, and it was pure luck that we came

across a leopard on a tree a few minutes later. He blended with

the foliage, and it required a skilled observer like our driver to

spot him.

We used binoculars to get a closer look--and he was beautiful.

The perfect symmetry of his body was obvious when he got up

to stretch and yawn. We weren't afraid because we felt

sufficiently distant from his reach, and he decided to sleep the

whole time we were watching.

Lion

It was getting late. Because we were not equipped for a night

safari, our driver advised us that we should all head back before

7 p.m.

We sped off in search of lions, nervous and excited at the

prospect of encountering them. We knew that lions moved in

for a kill when the sun went down. But the window of

opportunity was dangerously slim as it was now 6 p.m. and we

were far from the safety of Lake Nakuru Lodge by the hills.

But Raquel and her sister, brother and mother all agreed with me

that we wouldn't go back to the lodge until we saw some action.

We urged our driver to drive around some more, encouraged by

the daylight that lingered despite the sun having set.

Finally...we saw him! His magnificent golden mane blended with

the surrounding tall grass.

It was so exciting. For the first time in my life, I was approaching

the ''king of the jungle.'' We were coming so close, and I realized

that we were in a ''viewing van,'' which meant the top part was

open and one could stand up and stick out one's head to see

better.

Now I was nervous. I thought, what if this lion decided to eat us

instead? It would be so easy for him, for all he had to do was

leap atop the van and crunch my head off. After all, I was the

one now standing up to look.

The driver told us to be quiet, and we obeyed. I slowly sat

down, and stared out from my side of the window.

After observing this great creature for a few minutes, we

decided that he seemed bored with us. We took pictures, looked

at him through the binoculars, and headed off. I heaved a sigh,

relieved that my head was still intact.

'Bloodthirsty'

We nagged our driver for a lionkill scene, such as the ones we

see in Discovery Channel or National Geographic.

Nervously, he teased us about being ''bloodthirsty,'' and

pointed out that it was already 6:45 and we should be heading

back to safety.

I jokingly told him that I had come all the way from Manila for

adventure, and we bargained for a few minutes more.

Not long after, we got our prize--a scene with six lionesses

warily staring at a bull. We asked the driver to stop. Our hearts

were racing.

Surprisingly, it was the bull who seemed to be aggressive. He

paced and positioned himself to attack a lioness as the rest of

the pack looked on carefully. He grunted and groaned and dug

dirt with his hooves.

We were amazed that this bull was taking on the role of

aggressor when it was obvious that he had no chance if the

lionesses decided to make him their dinner. Our driver

commented that bulls were known for their ''stupidity,'' anyway.

It was like watching an action-suspense thriller. The bull

attacked, and the lionesses dispersed. And then they turned

and went after him.

At this point we heard the most spectacular roar--and it came

from the lion whom we were earlier admiring. He was at the other

end of the savannah, making his approval known to the

lionesses.

Soon they were roaring back, and the place was reverberating

with what seemed to be like ''sensurround.'' We were thrilled at

being present at the scene.

Even the bull appeared to feel the power of those roars, because

he soon moved away.

The lionesses walked away, too, and we followed them in our

van, trying to get as close as we could without catching their

ire.

We didn't get to see a lionkill. But just hearing lions roar around

us in communication with each other was an experience we will

not forget. To be concluded