LET us start by destroying what ''Alan Davidson,'' in the
brand-new ''Oxford Companion to Food'' (1999) calls a
''notorious example'' of culinary mythology. No, Marco Polo did
not introduce pasta/noodles from China to the Western World.
References to pasta are found in Italian texts earlier than 1295,
when Marco Polo returned from the Far East. Thus pasta is
authentically native-born Italian, and not a Chinese import.
Noodles (pancit) did come to the Philippines from China,
through the traders who started coming in the 11th century or
earlier. Spaghetti, however, seems to have reached us not from
Italy, but from the US, to whom spaghetti can be said to be just
about native--at least to Italian Americans. Its popularity is now
global, and may be the lead factor in the great acceptance Italian
food has found among Filipinos.
The thought occurs to us after visiting two Italian restaurants
recently. L'Opera (G/F Anson Arcade corner Paseo de Roxas
and Esperanza, Makati; tel. 843-3292) is near the social center;
its own action is visible through large windows. It is what many
think Italian restaurants must be: bustling, noisy, traditionally
decorated (the ''Last Supper,'' a ''Pieta'' on the wall), waiters
rushing, large family groups, large business groups with
speech-making, wine flowing at almost every table, roving
musicians.
Heartily traditional
The food is heartily traditional: for appetizers, carpaccio,
assorted cold cuts, assorted bruschetta, assorted steamed
seafood and shellfish, Crudita Marinare.
The pastas are basic and slightly beyond, e.g. spaghetti with
calamari, olives and garlic; or with seafood in tomato sauce; or
with baby clams in tomato sauce or white wine; angel hair with
dried tomatoes and virgin olive oil; linguine with salmon and
caviar; penne with scallops, zucchini, shrimps and a white
sauce; risotto with porcini mushroom sauce or with truffle cream
sauce; spinach ravioli with ricotta cheese in tomato sauce;
duck-filled ravioli, large fettuccine with pine seed ricotta and
Italian herbs; ricotta cheese gnocchi with tomato and pesto
sauce. Some of these one can find in other Italian restaurants in
town, and some one can't.
There are, of course, mushrooms (mixed, sautied in white wine,
oregano and olive oil), veal (scallops), pork, beef, fish and lamb
(baked lamb rack with two sauces). We were quite happy with
all our orders except one, a lamb dish that tasted less than fresh.
We told the waiter, and a fresh (and different) dish was brought
to replace it. The chef and the manager passed by and looked at
us, our table, and our food, but made no comment, nor any form
of greeting. The waiter was their spokesman, who apologized for
the error, but did not admit it. The chef had tasted the dish, he
said, and found it all right, but if our friend didn't, they
respected that and thus replaced it.
L'Opera is, you might say, is obvious, easy to find, and ''in the
swim.''
Quiet find
Il Ponticello (2/F Antel 2000 Building, 121 Valerio St., Salcedo
Village, Makati; tels. 887-7168/4998) is a young (new, run by
young people) restaurant, and not as easy to find.
It is in a quiet part of the Makati business area, on the second
floor of a building one reaches through a number of one-way
streets. It is run by Alberto Ramon B. Besa and his
partners--their very first food venture.
The master chef is Romeo Garchitorena, a Filipino with Italian
training. Dinner conversation is on the quiet side, except for one
misinformed character who spent his whole meal dedicated to
his cell phone, while his confreres ate in strange silence.
Amazingly, Il Ponticello serves breakfast, like Poncetta
affumicato e uavo (smoked bacon and eggs), corned beef
brisket and eggs, prosciutto and eggs, and Italian omelettes
(zucchini, chicken, Parmesan garlic and parsley [Casalinga]):
cooked ham, mushrooms, bell peppers, pesto, tomatoes and
garlic (del Forestieri) and Luganeghe sausage, asparagus,
rosemary, onions and garlic (alla Paesana)--collectively known
as the Big Man's Breakfast. Lighter appetites could have mixed
fruits with cottage cheese, muffins, cinnamon coffee bread with
butter and marmalade.
|
