Lanzarote, island of fire

THE GREAT Historian

Herodotus described this

group of islands in the

Atlantic Ocean as the

Garden of Hesperides.

The Greek poet Homer

alluded to it as the

Elysian Fields. Still other

endearing titles--such as

''orchard of peerless

beauty'' and ''ideal garden always in blossom''--have aptly

depicted the islands' heavenly splendor.

I personally believe them to be Vulcan's mythical land of birth.

Today, the Canary Islands continue to live up to their

reputation as among Spain's most exotic destinations.

According to local lore, volcanoes formed the islands, thrusting

them up from the floor of the sea, and ''raising them up to the

heavens.''

Having recently toured Europe, including Spain, Romania,

France, Germany and Italy, I had the rare chance of setting foot

on the island of Lanzarote in the Canaries. Lanzarote, one of the

world's most spectacular sights, is not only the region's oldest

island but also heaven on earth in all its ''black'' glory.

The sights evoke images of a time long forgotten, with

volcanoes, gorges and sand dunes making up the island's great

expanse. Lanzarote is like a lost world, a mal pais (literally a

badland) that has endured. The breathtaking barrenness of its

landscape blends perfectly with its volcanoes, deep valleys,

beautiful beaches and contemporary art.

Lanzarote forms part of the Canaries' volcanic archipelago that

lies some 100 kilometers from the western coast of Africa, two

hours from the Iberian Peninsula, and four hours from the rest of

Europe.

Sculpted by the great volcanic eruptions of the 18th century, the

island is essentially a condensed mass of black lava. In fact, its

fiery birth gave rise to the region's Montanas del Fuego, or Fire

Mountains, which have been declared a national park.

Despite its seeming infertility, however, some areas of Lanzarote

are cultivated to grow fruits and other crops. Surprisingly, it is

home to around 3,700 endemic specimens of flora and fauna. For

example, only in Lanzarote can be found the indigenous

jameitos, tiny, blind albino crabs whose origin remains unknown

to this day.

The island cuisine also presents a striking novelty. The gofio, a

type of corn flour or roasted cereal long used as a basic

ingredient by the natives, continues to be part of the local diet

because of its high nutritional value. Guests are sure to get a

gastronomical high on la vieja, el bocinegro, la sama and other

sumptuous shellfish delicacies. It is equally worth trying the

savory taste of tuna from the Sahara banks which is eaten

together with papas arrugadas (wrinkled potatoes) and the

famous red or green mojos seasoned with a mixture of oil,

vinegar, garlic and exotic spices.

The Lanzarote wine, whose excellent quality puts it among the

best in the world, is produced in an area that is termed

appellation d' origine where a dozen wine cellars are found. In

a way, drinking wine keeps the agricultural activity of the island

going for agriculturists to obtain the best from the dry terrain.

Owing to its proximity to Africa while being part of Spain,

Lanzarote comes as a rich blend of sun, sand and sea, with its

bizarre, out-of-this-world moonscape providing a stark contrast

to houses all painted in uniform white. From a distance, these

white residential clusters give off a radiant glow, like oases in

the middle of nowhere.

Its nearness to the African coast may be the reason Lanzarote

enjoys an eternal spring climate. There is little or no rain at all.

Yet despite being dry or semi-tropical, Lanzarote projects a

culture as colorful and lively as that of its Latin American

neighbors.