The best things in life are in Rome

BETWEEN the areas of Castel Sant’ Angelo and the Piazza Navona is the Via dei Coronari. Via dei Coronari is a short street lined with owner-run shops selling antique furnishings and clothing.

It sells both European and American vintage goods, and unless you are a true vintage aficionado with an admiration for all things old, beautiful but not necessarily clean or expensive, this is the place for you.

Even antique dealers in Piazza di Spagna and the Pantheon scour the Via dei Coronari for merchandise.

The Via dei Coronari forms a "V" with another funky street called the Via del Governo Vecchio. If Via dei Coronari is the Roman Portobello Road, then Via del Governo Vecchio is its Notting Hill Gate. As the name suggests, La Tavola (Via dei Governo Vecchio, 20A) has everything you need to dress a fabulous table.

The long and narrow store is presented in a minimalist setting but has everything you need to create an impressive table such as candles, china, silverware, linen, bowls and other table accessories. There is another shop on the other side of town (on top of the Spanish Steps) called Culti (Via Crispi, 45) which is also done in a minimalist style but has everything for the home from small furniture to bath supplies.

Antique

Prestigio Interni di Giovanni Papa (Via del Governo Vecchio, 38) is an antique dealer specializing in ceramics. If you like old but not necessarily precious knick-knacks, Cristin Sistina (Via Sistina, 93) is worth a visit although this, too is on the other side of town atop the Spanish Steps. The owner, Christina, buys from local and American estate sales. Thus, she has a mix of objects uncommon in Italy. She has a small collection of costume brooches which are hard to come by even at the Via dei Coronari and del Governo Vecchio.

Tempi Moderni (Via del Governo Vecchio, 107) is the haven of costume jewelry collectors. The pieces are well maintained or restored; all are of excellent quality. Most if not all the pieces are signed or stamped. Mado (Via del Governo Vecchio, 89A or www.madonet.com) is a vintage clothing store decorated like a dark ‘60s lounge.

Unlike most vintage stores that are crammed with stuff, Mado has a limited selection that seems to be only from the ‘40s to the ‘60s. If printed dresses and Bakelite are your fashion passions, Mado hits the spot.

In between the antique stores is a chic emporium decorated in Baroque style called Arsenale (Via del Governo Vecchio, 63). It sells mostly Costume National, a line known for its minimalist style. Arsenale accessorizes this chic and simple line with ostentatious costume jewelry and sumptuous shawls, showing that there is life beyond minimalism.

Lingerie

You cannot leave Rome without buying at least one set of beautiful lingerie and a set of luxurious linens. Two of the best names in the world are Italian—La Perla and Frette. La Perla (Via Condotti, 78) has swimsuits and underwear of the best quality. Unfortunately, the quality of their customer service is not as good as that of their products.

Shopping for lingerie and swimsuits are not the most pleasant and La Perla does nothing to ease that. Instead, the store is run by overly made up sour cows who refuse to let you browse. Another lingerie shop carrying different brands in Emy Funaro (Piazza di Spagna, 79). Some of the silkiest and most intricate nightgowns can be found in this tiny shop facing the Spanish Steps.

We spend one third of our lives in bed and if you want to make the most of it, consider linens from Frette (Piazza di Spagna, 11). The line consists of bed linens and towels, bedroom accessories and loungewear.

Anything can be custom made and there is something for everyone. Unlike other European lines which get too frilly or flowery, Frette has something for everyone. From sumptuous lace that would make Queen Victoria swoon to the most discreet patterns Andre Putman would love, everything Frette carries is luxurious and of the highest quality. The Rome store can ship anywhere in the world and you can order by email at nromad@frette.it.