Up and down Hibok-Hibok 2

Trek begins

We left at 8 a.m. and arrived 20 minutes later at the Ardent Hot Spring Resort (managed by the Philippine Tourism Authority) in Barangay Esperanza, the take-off point for the climb.

Located six km southwest of the town, this therapeutic mineral spring gushes from the bowels of Hibok-Hibok into a beautifully designed natural-stone swimming pool. The temperature of the water reaches as high as 50 degrees Celsius and picnickers here boil fresh eggs in the pool’s shallow portion.

At the resort we hired the services of Camiguinon guides Hamilton and RV (for the fee of P350 each, they also carried our provisions). We began our climb at 8:30 a.m.—Hamilton in front and RV at the rear—after about 10 minutes of stretching exercises.

We walked through a light forest and a hamlet of two houses and went past a coconut plantation before entering another light forest. The cheerful banter soon gave way to a subdued silence as we made our way up loose soil and blackened volcanic rocks, grasping at trees and sharp, meter-high cogon for support.

Soon scratches appeared on our hands, arms and legs. We were also consuming our water at an alarming rate, and I had to tell Jandy to just to wet his lips instead.

Our rest periods were frequent. Super-fit Carl suggested a 2-minute rest period after a 10-minute hike. Chubby Nubbin, on the other hand, suggested the reverse, drawing laughter from all of us. There's nothing like a touch of laughter—the best medicine—to make us forget, albeit temporarily, our sore muscles and flagging spirits.

As we went higher up the mountain, the panorama of a clear blue sky above, Mt. Tres Marias below, and C-shaped White Island far out into the sea came into view. It was an ideal photo opportunity.

We hiked for another two hours and were relieved to enter a gently sloping light forest. So much for the hard part, or so we thought. We did not yet know that as in a typhoon, we were just experiencing the calm before the storm. The tip of the volcano still loomed far, far ahead. From here to the summit it would be a tough scramble on a steeper, 40-45-degree section over loose rocks, boulders, scree, lava, and rock faces.

Since it was noon we decided to have our lunch of bread and chicken spread. We had difficulty washing it down because of our alarmingly low water supply. We realized how inadequate our provisions were.

It was also during this rest period that I began to feel pain in my legs.

We decided to get going at 1 p.m. in order to make it to the peak by 2 p.m. We estimated a return trip of 3-4 hours, and we didn't want to be caught by nightfall. Nobody had thought to bring flashlights.

I was bringing up the rear and my legs bothered me all too frequently. Cramps! When I saw that I was slowing the group down, I told the others to go on ahead and leave me with Jandy.

But I failed to reckon with my son's fighting spirit, and I was put in a quandary. My spirit was willing but my flesh was weak. Since he was diagnosed as afflicted with autism, I had trained Jandy to be as independent as he could be and to make decisions on his own. And he had decided to push on.

Self-fulfillment

With a heavy heart I let him go, but not without getting assurances from the rest of the "tribe" that he would be watched and guided carefully. It pained me to see him walk away, but I knew it was for his self-fulfillment. Soon they disappeared up the trail.

I had not abandoned the idea of making it up Hibok-Hibok, and I struggled, cramps and all, to do so. But it was an exercise in futility as it just drained my remaining strength and water. I decided to save my strength for the descent, and silently "voted" myself out of the race.

Resting by a rock, I began to pray like I had never done before. I asked the Almighty to guide my son's every step. In between prayers, my eyelids began to droop and I soon fell into a fitful sleep.

I was awakened by a shout coming from atop the volcano. From afar, I could espy Nubbin and Jake yelling their hearts out in jubilation. They were the first to make it. I could not tell if Jandy was among them. I shouted back at them and waved with my towel but they neither saw nor heard me. I waited anxiously for their return.

After about half an hour I was reassured by the sound of Jandy's voice as they came down. He was all right, thank God. I went up to meet my son, accompanied by Lulu, V and Henry, halfway.

According to the group, Jandy was third up the summit, followed by his guardian angel Randy, then Carl and Henry. The women brought up the rear. All perched precariously on the barely 5-foot-wide knife's edge on the crater's rim. After a 30-minute rest cum photo shoot, Jandy and Henry, RV and the women started their descent. The other guys decided to stay and explore the crater's rim.

But it was getting very late and we had to go down as fast as we could before sundown. There was a bit of bad news: Our water supply was exhausted. We would have to go down the mountain thirsty.

Since we were not going against gravity, it would seem that the descent would be a breeze, right? Wrong. As the soil was loose, it was slippery all the way and we also had to watch our step on loose rocks. There was also the need to cling to something, but it was painful to cling to the sharp cogon. V made the mistake of grasping at prickly ground ferns. No one in the group was exempt from bleeding cuts and scratches.

The very steep slopes were hard on the joints. My knees soon began to ache. We also had to combat our hunger and thirst. Jandy kept saying that we should stop to rest, but I had to goad him on as it was getting dark. RV and V were soon out of sight as Henry, Lulu and Jandy and I rested, and Carl, Randy and Jake—who had earlier been left behind—soon caught up with us and passed us by.

Just when we thought we would not make it, RV brought out bottles refilled with spring water from the hamlet we passed on our way up. Our spirits were somehow revived. It was still a long way off but now we did not have to contend with thirst.

Challenge

We reached the Ardent Hot Spring Resort at 6 p.m. bedraggled, scratched, hungry, thirsty and weak. It had taken all of six hours to reach the top and another three-and-a-half hours to make it down.

We lolled in the soothingly hot spring waters for about 30 minutes until, remembering our hunger, hied off to the restaurant for a well-deserved dinner.

We were all in bed by 8 p.m.

Hibok-Hibok poses a challenge even to the most seasoned climber, and it pays to be fit through exercise. Proper footwork and technique are essential to prevent sprains and cramps. Be sure to wear appropriate clothing (pants and long sleeves, while uncomfortable in the heat, are great for avoiding scratches and cuts).

Bring adequate water and food, but travel light and leave your hands free for grasping. Start very early, preferably before sunrise, to avoid the midday sun. Always arrange for an experienced guide from the tourism office or any resort.

My praise goes to all the members of our expedition, especially my son Jandy who, in spite of his handicap and the debilitating effects of heat, thirst and hunger, adamantly refused to quit and pushed on to victory. It was truly a triumph of the human spirit.

If given the opportunity, would I make the climb again? My answer is a resounding "Yes!" If asked why, I would give the same reply of that great Mt. Everest conqueror, Sir Edmund Hillary: "Because it is there."

But make no mistake. Hibok-Hibok is a very, very strenuous climb. Take it from this Pinoy "Survivor."