VIGAN:Un pedazo de España en el oriente (A piece of Spain in the Orient)

VIGAN, Ilocos Sur – I strolled down the stretch of Calle Mena Crisologo. The light from the antique street lamps and the full moon barely illuminated the narrow road covered with cobblestones, offering a nostalgic view of an era long gone, yet, features of its glorious past has remained. On both sides of the street, the famous stone houses stand proudly in their antique glory as a lone calesa made its way past the old houses, displaying the opulence that once made them the envy of other Ilocano towns. I felt a historical presence and I was certain it was not just the cool breeze. Perhaps these are the spirits of those who came before us. Countless generations have passed through these roads, each one leaving its own mark.

Suddenly, I heard a roar of a passing scooter...And just like that, it pulled me back to 21st century.

Juan de Salcedo, the grandson of Spanish Conquistador Don Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, must have had a vision when he chose "Bigan" (its old name) as the capital of Ilocos Region. He called it "un pedazo de España en el oriente" or "a piece of Spain in the Orient," for he wanted it to be like his hometown, Castille. He laid down the plans that would later make his dream a reality. Sadly, he never lived to see its completion.

The place was then left to the Augustinian friars, who took over the task of transforming the town into the image of Spain its architect had envisioned.

By the time the Spaniards arrived, Vigan had already become a bustling commercial town. So prominent was the stature of this place that even the diocese of Northern Luzon, the Diocese of Nueva Segovia, was transferred here, elevating Vigan’s status to that of a City. It was thus named "Ciudad Fernandina de Vigan".

The City of Vigan lies in the center of Ilocos Sur, known for its hardworking people and potent tobacco.

Even prior to the coming of the Spaniards, Vigan was already a thriving community because of its trade relations with China and other neighboring Southeast Asian countries. Through these links and its colonization by Spain, it became the core of education, commerce, government and religion in Northern Luzon.

Vigan is an early version of modern Manila. And indeed, this was evident in the Bigueños’ property. Their houses were furnished with the finest woodwork, glassware and porcelain from all over the world. Their ‘garahes’ (garages), I imagine, must have been loaded with numerous ‘carrozas’ (processional carriages) and the quaint, horse-powered calesas (carriages) that carried wealthy owners to church.

Most of them continue to be inhabited by descendants of the original builders or used for the original purposes for which they were built (religious and administrative buildings) while some of these houses have been adapted to support a more modest lifestyle, with their owners resorting to conventional, even frugal means of livelihood.

Some of the more spacious garahes have been turned into grocery stores or plain storage areas. A few of these homes, have also been transformed into museums and souvenir shops selling food items for ‘pasalubong such as ‘bagnet’ (a deep fried crisp pork belly), ‘longganisa,’ ‘cornik’ or ‘chichacorn,’ ‘sukang iloko,’ garlic, onions, ‘biscocho’ and ‘tupig.’

Tourists can also buy ‘burnay’ jars here, which can be a good house decor or go for inabel-woven fabric which can be made into bed covers, place mats and even as daily apparel. Also available are pieces of furniture made of wood and rattan and other curios, all at reasonable prices.

Being the only surviving colonial town in the country, Vigan has more than 180 ancestral houses and historical landmarks tightly strung along the narrow streets of the Old Mestizo District, popularly known then as "Kasanglayan" (Chinese quarters).

These structures, a unique fusion of Asian, European and Latin American influences, reflect the artistic and technological craftsmanship of the 18th and 19th century native artisans. With massive posts and walls of bricks, line mortar and plaster, red tile roofs, imposing doorways, grand staircases, broad narra floor boards, sliding capiz windows and ventanillas. The ancestral house of Vigan represent an outstanding architectural style adapted to the humid, earthquake-prone tropics.

The authenticity of the built heritage of Vigan has been established by experts: much of its original architectural, structural and decorative elements are still intact. It is the last remaining site in the country that has preserved its ancient urban character and architecture that reflects the interaction of Eastern and Western cultural imprints on our Filipino heritage.

The town plan is representative of the style the Spanish colonizers had designed and established in the 18th century, conforming to the "Ley de las Indias" (the Law of the Indies) that regulated the layout, street patterns and open spaces of all new settlements during the Spanish era: a regular urban design of grid street pattern radiating from a central plaza (park).

Dominating the central plaza (Plaza Salcedo) are the administrative and religious buildings: the Casa Real (Provincial Administrative Office) the Municipio (Municipal Hall), the Seminario (Archdiocesan Seminary), the Colegio de Niñas (which became the Rosary College, then St. Paul’s College), the Arzobispado (Archbishop’s Palace), the Cathedral (St. Paul’s Cathedral) with its detached campanario or belfry.

Another plaza, Plaza Burgos, is situated to the south of the cathedral where there are food stalls selling ‘okoy’ (vegetables with shrimp) and ‘empanada,’ wherein a visit to Ilocandia will never be complete without it.

As I prepare to leave, I take a final look at the City...Here and there, the hardworking Ilocanos go about doing their daily work, delivering burnay jars, sanding and polishing antique handicrafts or simply keeping shop. Gone are the days of elegantly dressed gentlemen with their ladies in white.

Vigan’s inscription in the UNESCO World Heritage List of Cultural Properties on Dec. 22, 1999 and a recently forged sisterhood link with Barra de Natividad in Mexico is an acknowledgment of the genius of our native artisans who built these buildings and monuments. A recognition of the commitment of the present generation to preserve our architectural legacy for the future generations.

Vigan is a living, breathing reminder of the past – a message to us of how much we can learn from it.

[ Plaza Salcedo Wiki ]