Boracay through a first timer’s eyes

What has been said about Boracay that hasn’t been said before? Books, songs, articles and photographs have paid homage to this little piece of paradise on the northwestern tip of Panay island which has been acclaimed as one of the world’s best. My trip to Boracay was highly significant because it was my first time to set foot here after more than 30 years of my existence. I was very determined to go to Bora because it seems everybody has been here… except me! And so with my friend Issa, I set foot in planning my vacation of a lifetime.

When you’re on a tight budget, I realized that the lean months (June to October) are the best time to go to Bora. Hotel rates are slashed in half for the low season and we were able to avail of promo fares from Asian Spirit which only cost R3,000 round-trip.

In less than an hour, we landed at the Caticlan Airport and soon boarded an outrigger boat that would take us to the famous White Beach. Just being on the boat itself gave me a high as the wind caressed my face. I could see the greenery all over and when I looked down, schools of fish were swimming in the sapphire blue waters. I smiled and thought of what a foreigner once told me: "You have such a beautiful country. God must have been smiling when he created the Philippines."

What is good about being new to a place is that I can look forward to the experience with child-like anticipation. There is just something so magical when you’re a Boracay "virgin," you look at things with so much awe and beauty. That is what I felt when my feet first hugged Bora’s powdery white sand like I have never seen before. And when I paused to marvel at the sun-kissed surroundings framed by the blue sky and the aquamarine sea, I knew right there and then that having your own piece of heaven need not be expensive or so far away. It was right here in Bora.

Upon arriving, we checked in at Red Coconut Beach Hotel which was right smack in Boat Station 2. This one had a nice beachfront swimming pool and bar manned by staff in tropical shirts as well as a relaxing garden view/seaview rooms. Red Coconut would be our home for the next three days. In the meantime, we were able to befriend the affable owner Connie Helgen who first built the hotel with her French husband Luc in the early 80’s.

The soft-spoken Connie proudly states that Red Coconut is one of the few hotels in the island which has almost 100 percent occupancy the whole year. Most of the guests are "returnees" who keep on coming back because they like the hotel’s personalized ambiance which Connie herself dishes out with so much warmth and flair.

Having your own cozy hotel room is just one aspect of finding bliss in Bora. Half of the fun is in spending it outside and discovering what else is in store. Bora throbs with so much action that it would be a sin to miss any of it. One can savor the island life and indulge in any of the following pleasures:

People watching. When you want to see people of all shapes and sizes, this is the place to be. It would be a useless exercise in vanity to feel conscious about your body because Bora’s denizens are happy and carefree. The rule is: Come as you are and dress up in the most daring, comfortable outfits possible. For the best view, drink or dine al fresco and see the enviable island life unfold before your eyes.

Because Bora is a premier tourist destination, it is naturally teeming with foreigners. We asked the local Department of Tourism office and we found out that Koreans topped the list with close to 64,000 of them flocking to Bora for the first eight months of 2004. A far second are the Americans, totaling 5,521; the Japanese, 3,166; the British, 3,130; and the Germans, 2,762. All in all, there were 321,626 foreign and domestic tourists who visited Boracay from January to August 2004 or an increase of 36 percent during the same period last year.

Connie Helgen recalls: "When we first started, it was only the Europeans who were here. Now, it is the Koreans who support tourism in Boracay. A lot of them are vacationing here in droves and have even established their businesses on the island."

Food tripping. Most of the restos are owned by foreigners and offer all sorts of cuisine – Greek, French, Indian, Japanese etc. We tried Jonah’s different-flavored shakes (a must! so everyone says), the burgers at Jammer’s and of course, Red Coconut’s famous French crepes. We also had our meals at the Prince Hendrik Café of Boracay Regency which is the only triple-A rated resort on the island. For dinner, they have a sumptuous dinner buffet of fresh seafoods reasonably priced at R250. The budget traveler can avail of cheap meal combos in the many restos dotting the area but the average price of a meal per person is R200.

Shop for souvenirs. It’s amazing how an island so small can offer everything, from internet cafes to photo developing shops and diving schools. It’s good that our hotel was right beside D’Mall which made shopping for souvenirs back home so accessible. Aside from the requisite "I’ve been to Bora" shirts, one can find in the assortment of shops swimsuits, handmade soaps, postcards, native bracelets, Thai lamps and even Balinese furnitures. For cheaper finds, head off to the Talipapa market near Boat Station 3.

Other facets of island life. There are a thousand other things to do in Bora than romp on the beach. Go ahead, make friends. Try the shooters at Cocomangas. Get an invigorating massage and a pedicure right under the coconut tree. Try the temporary henna tattoo. Hear mass at the local parish. Be active – windsurf, snorkel and take the banana boat ride. Talk to the islanders and be fascinated with their natural warmth and friendliness. The options are endless.

Discover the unexplored Boracay. Listen to the boatman the next time he offers you a tour. It might be an adventure that’s a little out of the ordinary. For example, not many people have been to Puka Beach which boasts of millions of puka shells on its shores.

There is also the Bat Cave which is home to thousands of giant fruit bats. Also worth checking out is Mount Luho, Boracay’s highest point which rises 100 meters above sea level. The Live Coral Bed, located at the southernmost tip of White Beach, gives one the chance to witness the rich diversity of marine life in the island.

Before we knew it, our three-day vacation was over. There was so much to do in so little time. This is probably the reason why Boracay holds a spell for many people. The thousand possibilities on the island makes you want to go here again and again and I am no exception. BRB (be right back), Bora!