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Philippines

Enchanting
Source: Manila Bulletin
Author: By Wendell Gaa
Date: 2004-12-10
 
What is the utopian paradise Vacation Island in the Philippines?" That is a question many tourists and balikbayans alike ponder over countless times before visiting the Pearl Islands of the Pacific. Well, if you are in the mood to try venturing somewhere exotic, how about looking south to the enchanting Camiguin Island of Mindanao? If you define paradise as the embodiment of peace, this island is for you, which has much to offer: friendly inhabitants, scenic mountain peaks, soothing water springs and lovely beaches. Absolutely none of the tourist commercialism you find in such crowded beach resorts as those in Honolulu, Hawaii or Miami, Florida exists here, and I’m rest assured that most visitors and locals prefer it that way!





Camiguin is located in the Mindanao Sea, approximately seven kilometers from the Northern Mindanao mainland. Lush vegetation and rich offshore fishing grounds enable the over 64,000 islanders to make their living as fishermen and farmers. The majority of the people are of Visayan background; therefore you shall hear Cebuano as the common tongue spoken locally (though we found out that getting around with either English or Pilipino wasn’t too much of an impediment).



My family and I were given relatively smooth access to this island via a ferry from the Northern Mindanao town of Balingoan (two hours east of Cagayan De Oro, where I previously attended my cousin’s wedding). From Balingoan, it took us nearly 90 minutes to reach Camiguin. Upon arrival at the sea wharf of Benoni (about 30 minutes by jeepney from the island provincial capital of Mambajao), we were immediately escorted from the ocean docks by two lovely females named Margie and Candy of the local branch of the Philippine Department of Tourism.



Our first activity of the day was having brunch at the residence of Governor Pedro Romualdo who, along with his family and friends, offered his share of gracious hospitality. We then began driving around the island. We saw so many scenic hills and peaks that seemed oh so ever green, even at their highest point. We discovered how six majestic volcanoes grace Camiguin: Vulcan Daan, Hibok-Hibok, Mt. Mambajao, Mt. Timpoong, Guinsiliban Peak and Mt. Tres Marias (keep in mind that Camiguin is a volcanic island, so you may expect an occasional rumble or two!)



We then proceeded to the Ardent Hot Spring Resort, which has an alluring charm of its own. I can’t think of anything better than an early morning recline amidst the warm waters (40 degrees Celsius) of this resort’s natural stone-made swimming pool. The best times to visit the pool are in the early morning, especially on rainy days, and in the evening. Nearby we saw a rest house with changing facilities complete with the bare necessities of food and drinks. Interested visitors may stay at the nearby Ardent-Esperanza Mountain Resort, which consists of cottages for about R200 and dorm beds for R50. As for the spring itself, we paid only 5 pesos for admission, not bad at all!



Next on our itinerary was a stroll to the famous trees of Camiguin’s very own lanzones fruits! Lanzones happens to be one of my favorite native Philippine fruit, and believe me when I say that we were able to grab our fair share of these tasty treats! Believe it or not, there is a Lanzones Festival that occurs every year towards the end of October, centered in Mambajao. While the festival unfortunately was not happening at the time we were there, our guides discussed with us how this exciting fiesta features much exhibits, entertainment and a very colorful parade with people in costume (of which consist of tribal wear used by the several cultural minorities of northern Mindanao). Food for thought: the sweetest lanzones in the Philippines are actually grown on the slopes of Hibok-Hibok.



Our tour guides then led us to Barrio Bonbon in Catarman province. Driving by the Oceanside, we saw before us the Sunken Cemetery, remains of an archaic community cemetery sunk during the 1871 volcanic eruption. A giant cross entrenched upon a tiny island of stone marks the spot where underwater lies a group of coral encrusted tombstones! This is the only cemetery of its kind that I’ve seen in all of the Philippines. Scuba divers and snorkellers can actually scout the tombstones below and there are also bancas that people can rent to sail closer to the cross. The cross itself was established in 1982. Every November, the townsmen of Barangay Bonbon organize a procession to honor the sunken graves of their forefathers. People bring candles and flowers in memory of those buried in the cemetery. Yet even beneath the waves, the dead are remembered.



Further driving through Barangay Bonbon brought us to the Catarman Church Ruins, approximately 10 kilometers from the center of Catarman town. Walking around the site fueled me with an adventurers’ feeling, the same which Indiana Jones possessed when he stumbled upon the biblical grounds for his prized Ark of the Covenant in that renowned blockbuster movie classic Raiders of the Lost Ark. Shrouded partially by tree shrubs, the belfry and the convent are all that remain of this church demolished by an earthquake in 1871, along with the eruption of Mt. Vulcan which obliterated the town of Catarman, which began initially as a Spanish colony in 1697. Trying to decipher for myself how the church must have appeared in its pre-disaster heyday aroused my bewitchment with Philippine archaeology.



After our earlier experience with some hot springs, we all longed for some nice refreshing cool water, which is exactly what we indulged ourselves in at the Santo Niño Spring north of Catarman. Upon coming there, I was so awestruck by the lovely cottage house setting of the resort, which was everything I could ask for. You could just imagine the photogenic image of the place with at least one of the cottages set against the backdrop of a thick jungle of palm trees, along with a large stone-made pool nearby having a two-meter deep sandy floor fed by a seemingly endless flow of cold springs. This is indeed the perfect summer getaway as we saw many families holding picnics here, with the cottage and a small store facility available. A mere few minutes caressing my feet against the smooth springs felt like a lifetime of heavenly bliss, prompting me to consider this to be the highlight of my island trip! And such satisfactory diversion makes me want to "Come Again" to Camiguin!




[ Sunken Cemetery Wiki ]

 

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