STORIES about the ''pygmy forest'' of San Isidro in Davao Oriental have ranged from the extraordinary to the very impressive to the simply outrageous.

Sometime in June and July, I was supposed to visit the place which is a member-municipality of the Provincial Agro-Industrial Corridor (Paic) Magbalusta (Mati, Banay-Banay, Lupon, San Isidro and Tarragona) in Davao Oriental.

The Local Government Support Program (LGSP) was supposed to help launch it as an alternative tourism destination in Mindanao, together with three other Paics in Southern Mindanao.

Since the highlight of any trip to San Isidro was a visit to this forest, I was dissuaded from going. The trek, according to some, is arduous, to say the least. The place is very far with journey time ranging from three to 10 days. The trail is leech-infested, etc., etc.

But upon the instigation of San Isidro Mayor Justina M.B. Yu, who already recognizes her municipality's potential for community-based tourism, the LGSP was requested to assist in the preparation of their tourism master plan and the eventual launching of these tourism potentials.

So in October, off we went.

The first two days were spent visiting the lowlands, including the beaches and diving sites. Since many foreigners have already visited the area, pictures of them riding on the back of a shark, vase-like corals, colorful fishes and others are already available.

What was left to explore were the Cabsisanan Beach and the Gaacob Caves with its amphitheater-like rock formations along the shore. Seashells can be harvested and eaten even without being dipped in vinegar or soy sauce.

Then, the inland potentials. The Talisay Rock Formations, which can be reached after 15 minutes of uphill walking, offers cave-like projections with mini-waterfalls.

A dip at the Cawa-Cawa Pools was very rejuvenating. It is actually a series of small waterfalls with huge basins. The first drop is like a jacuzzi with cold water massaging tired bodies.

After relaxing at the first drop, the next basin is for driving and child-like frolicking. It has a depth of 15-feet with pure heavenly sand underneath. Its banks could be the perfect diving pads for the more adventurous.

On the third day, we were off to Mt. Hamiguitan, the site of the ''pygmy forest.''

In Barangay Tumaliti, where the trek begins, more outrageous stories would send us off--the dwarf monkeys which enter one's ears if one's not careful, and other tall tales meant to dissuade the faint-hearted.

Despite the ''horror'' stories, we embarked on our trip at noon. The first half was not ''arduous'' and we did not need a rescue chopper. It afforded us a view of second growth and residual forest cover left behind by loggers. With its abandoned roads, a weed-covered bulldozer and a maze of steel cables, logging made a mark on the mountainous landscape.

The five-hour walk would have been shorter had it not been for the driving rain that made us feel like toddlers playing. The first campsite, Kapatagan Uno, was reached at 5:30 p.m. where we pitched tent and prepared dinner. After eating and laughing our throats hoarse, the non-stop rain made us crawl inside the comforts of our tents.

At 7 a.m. the next day, we continued our trek. Knowing better now that the trail would not be as tricky as purported to be, we took our time appreciating the flora and fauna.

Mini-waterfalls adorn the way, while small snakes, butterflies deep in conversation, frogs in camouflage, mossy 45-degree climbs, and others made the walk very rewarding--the first time I ever touched a tree wrapped in gel-like moss.

Despite the delay from gawking, we arrived at the second campsite, Kapatagan Dos, just in time for lunch. Being already at the foot of the ''pygmy forest,'' we took time to eat and had siesta waiting for the sun's heat to wane a little since there would be no shade under the trees only two feet tall.

At 2:30 p.m., we started going up to the forest. Standing in the middle of the 400-plus hectare bonsai field, one feels like Gulliver.

Narra, almaciga, pine and other varieties of trees that dwarfed us on our way up are small yet strong enough to sit on.

Underneath the canopy of trees, it looked much like looking up in an ordinary thicket, except that passersby would appear like giants about to trample you.

Pitcher plants, which looked like giant condoms, are miniature replicas seeming to have adjusted their size to avoid insulting the majestic tree species.

Because of the rocky soil, the trees grew stunted. But the weeds grow to normal size, often dwarfing the gnarled trees on which they grow on.

At 3:30 p.m., we had to hurry back to the campsite since the fog could easily cover the whole bonsai field in minutes, putting us in danger of losing our way.

Sure enough, the minute we turned our backs, the fog was rapidly descending and enveloping the enchanted forest of the dwarfs.

After sleeping in for another night, we trekked down the mountain. Just as exciting as the climb up, the forest never tired of entertaining us through the myriad activities of nature.

Most exciting was the rushing wind between two mountains, like huge sea waves breaking toward shore, and the whining cicadas like chainsaws cutting trees.

No, the small monkeys are just tales, the ''trickiness'' of the trail was just meant to impress those who have not been there, and the 10-day walk was simply a manifestation of fear of not having been there themselves.

What is true is that it is a challenging trek that affords one the pleasure of communing with nature in a place rarely reached.

What is truest of all is that there exists a vast expanse of land where anybody could play Gulliver in one of his travels and look down at a forest untouched by the greed of man.

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