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Pampanga's cultural
renaissance in Mimosa
By Raquel P. Gomez

UNDER a starless and moonless night sky at the Mimosa Leisure Estate in Clark Special Economic Zone, Pampanga, an unusual wedding took place.

Two trees, representing the first ancestors of the Capampangan race and Mimosa, a large tourist enclave inside the former US base comprising of a golf course, hotels and other facilities, were ''joined in marriage'' in rites depicting ancient rituals of the Capampangans.

Drumbeats rolled and the eerie sound of flute lingered in the cold air. A shaman, a role carried out by a local historian, recited the prayers. Businessman Jose Antonio Gonzalez, the prime mover behind Mimosa, and partner Malou with several Aetas performed the sacred tasks, while guests witnessed the event.

Symbolically binding Pampango culture to Mimosa (a name taken from a plant with fernlike leaves), the couple tied the trees with a ribbon and poured water on them to ensure the growth and success of the three-year-old estate.

Incorporating the distinctive way of Pampango life into its marketing is the core of ''Mimosa Queni,'' a campaign launched by the estate to entice tourists to this part of Luzon, where lahar is already a component of people's existence.

Mimosa occupies 250 has. of the 4,400-ha. US base now transformed into an economic zone. Within the zone are several developments. There are large tract estates, an international airport, duty-free shops, and an international trade center (Expo Pilipino).

As part of Angeles, the zone has now become a high ground. Much lahar was deposited into Angeles after Mt. Pinatubo exploded in 1991. Only low-lying towns west of the volcano are prone to flooding.

Gods and lovers

Local historians go about gatherings and parties in Mimosa and Angeles to relate the ancient Capampangan legends, customs and practices.

Mike Pangilinan and Mark Nepomuceno say the Capampangans have their own version of the Romeo and Juliet tale. There were two warring families from Dayap (the old name of Arayat) and Wawa (the old name of Guagua). The royal son from Dayap and the princess from Wawa fell in love, but the parents were against the relationship. The lovers died heartbroken.

Misfortune fell on the two families. They went to a shaman for an answer. He told the parents that, unless the souls of the lovers were married, the bad luck wouldn't go away. The shaman went to the forest to find the trees representing the souls of the ill-fated lovers, and bonded them in marriage. The two were the Capampangan indu (first parents), and the marriage was known as kala-dua, or ''two souls.''

''Capampangans believe a person has two souls, that's why their term for it is kala-dua. The person's first soul represents his name, and his other soul identifies him with nature,'' says Pangilinan.

The two volcanoes of Pampanga, Mt. Arayat and Mt. Pinatubo, have figured not only physically but also culturally in the lives of the Capampangans. Legend has it that two gods reside in the mountains. Apu Mallari, the moon god, sits in Mt. Pinatubo, and Apu Sinukuan, the sun god, in Mt. Arayat. A great war between the two was waged in the heavens and continued on earth. When the mountains rumble and erupt, it is said the two gods are again fighting.

Warriors and traitors

Capampangans have a strong link with Indonesians. They have common terms such as nasi, or ''rice''; the prefix malu-, or ''bashful''; babi, or ''pig.''

Pangilinan says Capampangan society is somewhat a matriarchal one. Women hold a high place in the family setup. Nature is represented by a woman. The women, too, founded several towns in Pampanga.

''The Capampangans are proud to be mayabang,'' says Pangilinan, and he traces this arrogance to an ancient war practice.

Before starting a battle, a Capampangan warrior had to recite a long poem detailing the name of his ancestors and their achievements. This usually lasted for three days.

Capampangans trace their origins in the Madjapahit Empire in ancient Indonesia, which extended to many parts of Asia. They also trace their lineage to Ishkandar, or Alexander the Great, who conquered Asia in 332 B.C.

As to the mercenary preoccupation of the Capampangans, Pangilinan explains that, during the Spanish time, it was the practice of the military to recruit Capampangans. For every one Spanish soldier, they would include three Capampangans, and that would be counted as four Spaniards. This explains why Capampangans were detailed in many parts of the country.

French-Pampango cuisine

The Pampanga cultural renaissance in Mimosa can also be experienced inside the cream-colored villas that dot the green landscape.

The interiors are a showcase of the arts and crafts of Pampanga. The chairs, tables, laundry baskets made from rattan, yantok and other native materials, and the imposing beds made from hardwood adorn the spacious halls and rooms. Any hotel attendant can pinpoint the store where to buy these items.

The cuisine served at Monte Vista hotel is a blend of French and Pampango. The sisig is wrapped in crepe. The fresh salad is a mixture of edible flower petals, lettuce and talbos ng kamote. The suam mais, a Capampangan clear corn soup, is mixed with cream, and topped with bits of chicharon.

There are several restaurants inside the Mimosa estate that offers authentic Pampango cooking: Bahay na Kubo, Derangan sa Mimosa and Red Crab.

Since Clark is 15 minutes away from Angeles City, it is also the opportune time to observe fiestang Culiat, the famous feast of the town that originated from the Spanish war with the Dutch in the 1600s.

Welcome

Along Lakandula Street, just beside the church, is Bale Herencia, a bahay-na-bato owned by Jiji Paras. For one Sunday, the house became a Pampango gastronomic paradise. Famous restaurants in Angeles contributed a menu or two to the food showcase.

The following sumptuous dishes were served: bulanglang, known in Tagalog as sinigang sa bayabas; kilain, a rich concoction pork liver and lungs; pancit luglug, Pampanga's pancit palabok; sisig, a spicy dish of pig's head; burong babi, or fermented pork; burong isda and paro, fermented fish and shrimp; broiled vegetables; paksing dimonyu, or eggplants, ampalaya and sili cooked in vinegar; ningnang bulig, or broiled mudfish; calderretang kambing, Pampanga's version of the veal stew; pampano fish with lemon grass; adobong pugo; camaru, stir-fried crickets; atchara; seafood in taba ning talangka or crab's fat.

The after-main-course affair is a Pampango dessert storm with creamy tibuk-tibuk (from carabao's milk), mochi (from monggo and malagkit), silvannas, sapin-sapin, calame ube.

Also found inside Mimosa are non-Capampangan entities such as a German and a Korean restaurant. The health spa, offering Swedish and Siatsu massage, is run by former movie actress Vivian Velez. In the casino, balladeers such as Jun Polistico, Bert Nievera and Julius Obregon perform. Duty-free shops, a fitness center, and horseback-riding services abound in the place.

Mimosa is a square-shaped estate with lolling greens and fairways, a place reminiscent of how the Americans maintained the Clark base. It looks quite different from the rural areas surrounding it, which have tall carabao grass instead of bermuda.

Although the high-wire perimeter fence, remnant from the base's existence, still separates Mimosa from the rest of Pampanga, the estate nevertheless has opened its doors. Everyone is welcome.