Nostalgic ferry trip along the Pasig

MANILA, Philippines – Question. What do Manila and Paris have in common? Steel landmarks both designed by Monsieur Gustave Eiffel. The man behind Paris’ landmark tower also designed two of Manila’s well-known steel edifices, San Sebastian Cathedral and Quezon Bridge; the former being the only one of its kind in Asia.

Manila was known as the Paris of the East during the pre-war and the American city planner was so enchanted by the city that he envisioned grand plans for it, starting from the old Luneta all the way to Dewey Boulevard in Pasay.

However, Manila has deteriorated beyond recognition.

Pasig River, which snakes from the mouth of Manila Bay all the way through Laguna de Bay, has been dying for decades.

Various efforts have been exerted to revive the river, including those by First Ladies Imelda Marcos and Amelita Ramos. Recently, ABS-CBN Foundation’s Gina Lopez took the gargantuan task of reviving the dying river.

Urban legend

It is said that Mrs. Marcos had been so impressed with Lee Kuan Yew’s success with Singapore River’s revival in 1977 that she wanted a boardwalk to cover the entire length of Pasig where people could converge on weekends, and she tried replicating Boat and Clarke Quays. However, the Marcoses were overthrown in 1986 before she was able to implement it along Pasig.

Fast-forward to 2009, Pasig River is still gasping for breath, and people may have second thoughts about using the river as an alternative route to travel around the metro.

The Department of Transportation and Communication recently upgraded the Pasig River Ferry, from local outrigger boats; they have started using a twin-hull air-conditioned catamaran fast craft that slices through Pasig River’s waters with grace and agility. No comparison with José Rizal’s “El Filibusterismo’s” “Bapor Tabo,” which noisily and slowly traversed the entire length for hours in the 19th century. In its place is a modern form of transportation comparable to what modern Europe uses in its waterways.

One can easily get on and off in well-designed stations that cover various outposts from Escolta all the way to Guadalupe, and plans are afoot to cover the entire stretch all the way to Marikina, once the dredging of the heavily silted river has been completed.

One can relive the romance of Pasig River which is now just a distant past, especially when one passes in front of Malacañang Palace and the few patches of greenery left such as Arroceros Forest Park and Presidential Security Group grounds. The stately mansions that used to line the river in the Santa Ana District have long been demolished to give way to squatter colonies, with the exception of the Lichauco house and Father Reuter’s much-beloved Xavier House, which have survived the ups and downs of the river, unlike the Arcache mansion.

Manila Boat Club

I can’t help but feel sad for the Manila Boat Club, which has been closed permanently due to lack of membership before it could turn 100 years old: Either some members have moved to bigger clubhouses or most of the original members have passed away and their kids were no longer keen on playing squash or sculling the river. I was lucky I was able to experience rowing in Manila Boat Club, and loved the team spirit we mustered getting the boats from the silong of the boat club and putting it down by the river, washing it after our lap all the way to Guadalupe. Makati’s skyline has changed so much, especially with the addition of new upscale residential buildings in Rockwell and Guadalupe. However, some things have remained all these years, big factories that still operate along the river that have contributed to the river’s death together with the million homes that have treated Pasig as their own sewer.

One can sit comfortably inside the ferry or may opt to stay at the ship’s bow to take and feel the wind in one’s face. This ferry is actually the fastest way to go to Divisoria from Makati. Just check the hourly departure either in Guadalupe, Hulo or Lambingan stations. One can get off at Escolta Station and walk toward Binondo or take a calesa or jeepney. From Escolta Station, one can see the grandeur of Old Manila, from the stateliness of Manila Post Office to the poetry of Gustave Eiffel’s architecture, the Quezon Bridge. All this without flying all the way to France, and for a measly P45. Not a bad way to rediscover our historic past and glorious future, especially if Pasig River gets a second lease on life.

[ Pasig City Wiki ]