My Manila weekend

What do we really know about Manila? Most of us have lived and worked here all our lives and yet, even as we go about to and fro, are we really aware of what happens in this city? Beyond the traffic and the smog, the litter and the chaos, what is the real soul of Manila?

To discover why we are the way we are, it is always good to look back. And so, tying up with its efforts to revisit the grandeur of the city’s past, the Manila Hotel has teamed up with artist and performer Carlos Celdran for My Manila Weekend. This nostalgic package includes Celdran’s Intramuros Deluxe Tour and the Imelda Tour, as well as overnight accomodations at the Manila Hotel, with cocktails at the Tap Room, a special dinner at the Champagne Room, and Halo-Halo at the Lobby Lounge.

Immediately after check-in on Day 1, Celdran got right down to it with the Intramuros tour.

Walk this way

Like the pied paper of lore, gobernadorcillo-garbed Celdran brandished his top hat and bade us enter the walls of Fort Santiago. Lugging a mini-cassette player from whence emerged martial music, liturgical choruses, and even a lilting tinikling, he created the appropriate atmosphere for his stories about Spanish conquistadors and Dominican friars, including a clock-ticking one-minute narrative of Jose Rizal’s life and times. In between the facts and figures were short anecdotes that punctuated an already colorful historical canvas. A calesa-ride saw us meandering through the cobbled streetes of Intramuros, past the Manila Cathedral, past gardens and restaurants, past tourism-related offices, past buidlings housing maritime industry headquarters - our horses and carts mingling with vehicular traffic.

We alighted at the San Agustin Church, a favorite venue for weddings. And sure enough, we chanced upon a wedding party braving the intense summer heat in their plumes and finery. But more than being a pop culture icon, the San Agustin Church is a world heritage site distinguished for its architecture. It is also a repository of Manila’s heroic and tragic history. Shifting from light wit to a somber note, Celdran took us into the church’s crypt as he commemorated valiant souls lost to Japanese atrocities during World War II. Then, switching gears, he whisked us off across the street to Casa Manila, where courtyards fully restored to its original 19th century designs offered a glimpse of everyday life at that time. The afternoon concluded with refreshing glasses of halo-halo, while Celdran reprised the tour with words of wisdom: “You may not be able to change how Manila looks, but you can change how you look at Manila.”

We returned to the hotel and after freshening up, we had cocktails at the Tap Room. Ever the effervescent host, Celdran continued sharing some more Manila trivia. We were all ears, of course, especially as we enjoyed our drinks. One special concoction called Fruit Crush was particularly refreshing. A mixture of pineapple fruit, lemon juice, coconut cream, heavy cream, and simple syrup, it was like sipping liquid macaroons.

A bite of history

Dinner at the Champagne Room highlighted heirloom recipes from this grand doyen of fine dining restaurants. Celdran informed us that its new chef, Christine Zarandin, has been scouring the hotel’s archives so as to revitalize the signature dishes of the rejuvenated Champagne Room. And so, we dined on a selection that must have been the favorite of the famous and the fabulous, sitting where they must have sat, using the same silverware and dishes.

A Moulard Duck Foie Gras au Torchon on toasted brioche with baby apple and balsamic spun sugar started our culinary reminiscence. Chef Christine must have taken great pains at preparing the torchon, rolling them into shape overnight.

This was followed by a Smoked Tomato Puree with crisp cheddar souffle and basil pesto. The tender warmth of sweet tomatoes laced with basil was the perfect backdrop for the crunchiness of the cheese.

Up next was a Heart of Palm Salad with endive, arugula, herbed goat cheese, and citrus vinaigrette - a crunchy lettuce combination with perky sweet and sour accents.

The main course of Lobster Visayas - oven-roasted lobster with vanilla coconut cream sauce and mango relish - brought us back to an era of long languid lunches and divine dinners.

A surprise ending came by way of Mangoes Jubilee with homemade lemongrass ice cream and orange liquer sauce flambe. In the same way that a tableside flambe creates drama, the use of lemongrass in the ice cream provided a flavor that was both simple and sophisticated at the same time. Perhaps noticing how we licked our dessert spoons to the last bit, our kind host offered second servings of lemongrass ice cream.

It was rather late when we finished our coffee and tea and petit fours. But even as sleep cajoled, I could not help but notice how fine and luxurious my bedroom was. Manila Hotel’s fully renovated guest rooms are equipped with modern facilities and amenities. (Check out the flat screen TV in the privacy of the cozy bathroom.) But at the same time, the hotel remains a showcase of authentic Philippine interior design, as seen in the all-narra woodwork and flooring. And on a clear day, guests can soak up the spectacular views of the city’s skyline, the bay, and the famous Manila sunset through huge windows in each room.

Day 2 was as bright and sunny as the summer sun can be. As Cafe Ilang-Ilang is still under renovation, breakfast was served in the area where the hotel’s Italian restaurant Roma, used to be. Manila Hotel’s general manager Leon Keekstra, joined us for breakfast and chatted about exciting new developments to come. But as far as details and specifics were concerned, he smiled cryptically, saying: “It’s all going to be a wonderful surprise.” That’s really something to look forward to, in view of the hotel’s centennial celebration in three years.

Intrigue and sweet conclusions

In the afternoon, our indefatigable guide Carlos Celdran gathered us all for the intriguiing Imelda tour. Starting at the Cultural Center of the Philippines, then hopping onto the Philippine International Convention Center (PICC), Celdran impressed us with his bottomless well of information and knowledge about all things Imelda.

They say you either love or hate the former first lady. But whichever end of the pole you may embrace, you can’t discount the fact that during the country’s golden years of the ‘70s, Imelda did place Manila and the Philippines on the global roster of destinations that mattered. But at what price this achievement came to be is another long and controversial story.

The weekend’s tour concluded with halo-halo at the hotel’s Lobby Lounge. The traditional Filipino dessert was served in a glass that actually held more than meets the eye. At the bottom lay an array of sweet beans, corn, kaong, nata de coco, macapuno strings, and creamy ube (purple yam). A middle layer of crushed ice settled on top of these goodies. A scoop of ube ice cream topped with a cherry tied it all up.

My Manila Weekend was a very enlightening and informative tour combined with the luxury of classic Manila Hotel hospitality. Celdran’s hilarious humor, flowing theatrical style, pockets full of trivia, and provocative insights made it totally enjoyable. And despite the heat and humidity of this torturous Pinoy summer, it was well worth it.

[ Manila Wiki | PICC Wiki ]