Meeting the people of the skylands

Ifugaos have a culture that dates back to 3,000 years ago

Banaue's terrain is as diverse as its people. And is as ageless. The

mountains of Banaue provide a certain degree of isolation from the

rest of civilization, making it harder for the present to intrude into the

lives of its inhabitants. The foliage is rich and colorful, like the culture

of the Ifugaos.

Banaue's location, which is 4,000 feet above sea level, makes it seem as if

the sky is just an arm's reach away and you are walking among the clouds.

This is why the natives of the region are called "the people of the skylands".

The Ifugaos have a culture which dates back to 3,000 years ago and is still

very much alive.

I had the chance to see this for myself when I joined a group of people who

went to the Hapao rice terraces and Banaue Viewpoint as part of an Ifugao

Familiarization Tour organized by the Philippine Tourism Authority.

The Hapao rice terraces are one of few

extensive, stone-walled terraces built

centuries ago. It is believed that it is

where the terrace culture of the Ifugaos

originated. Those are located nine

kilometers from Poblacion Hungduan.

Getting to Hapao meant we had to brave

an hour and a half of unpaved roads.

There had been plans to smoothen them out but visitors, particularly the

foreigners, say it adds to the thrill and rusticity of the trip.

The only way to get around Banaue is by jeepney. I was amazed at the

drivers' maneuvering ability as they made their vehicles burn rubber as they

snaked around the mountains.

The sight that we beheld as we reached Hapao was simply breathtaking. Tier

after tier of green blades beckoned to us.

Hats are appropriate there, particularly the straw, wide-brimmed ones. Our

guides provided us with those, together with walking sticks. Hiking boots or

sneakers were needed to be able to handle the terrain, which changed from

concrete to smooth, uneven stones to soft soil.

To reach the paddies, we had to go down a flight of stone steps. Then we

walked on the pilapil, the narrow path between each terrace, to get to the

bottom. The trek took about an hour. Our ability to balance ourselves was put

to the test.

At the bottom of the terraces were a few houses

and a river, where children and women were

washing. The houses were a mix of

modern-meets-traditional. Although building

materials such as concrete and galvanized iron

roofs were used, some houses still sported the

stilts, high-ceilings, rat guards and narrow ladders

characteristic of houses of the region. Beside the

houses are hayungans or little shacks where

grain is dried and kept. Inside, the grain is

smoked to preserve it.

There were woodcarvers living nearby. They showed us some of their work

which they sell for about P20 to P500 depending on the design. Next to

planting rice, this is the second most lucrative business here.

If you think the trek going down was difficult, wait until its time to go up again.

Walking around the paddies was pretty easy but going up the steep steps

again was the real problem. The best way to do it is to take two steps at a

time then rest and enjoy the scenery.

Next we went to the Banaue Viewpoint, which probably provides the best

vantage point to view the terraces. There were old people in their traditional

dress sitting around to be photographed. An old man favored us with a melody

from his flute.

There are a lot of shops around the area. The best buys are the woven linen,

wall hangings, cardigans, wooden carvings, pigskin drums, bags, silver and

gold accessories. The market place teemed with tourists drawn to the variety

of wares.

Though we were a little disappointed that the terraces were quite bare ( we

were in the wrong season to view them), just the experience of seeing the

magnitude of the terraces was spiritual. It was as if God carved out the steps

with His fingertip.

The terraces say much about those who made them. Such a wonder could

only be accomplished by hard-working, ingenious, and sturdy people.

To reinforce our immersion into Ifugao culture and history, we also visited the

Banaue Museum. The museum had a wide display of items indigenous to the

region. There were rattan baskets, spears, bead jewelry, replicas of Ifugao

houses, wooden icons, musical instruments, to name a few.

Lily Bayer Luglug, curator of the museum said that most of the artifacts on

display are part of a collection owned by her father and grandfather. Some of

their most prized possessions include a bulol or house god; hagabi, a long

wooden bench only rich families own; a tiking or coffin, several pieces of

jewelry and antiques.

During our stay at the Banaue Hotel and Youth Hostel, one of the properties of

the PTA, we were treated to a cultural show at the lobby. The performers were

from the Tam-an Village just below the hotel. They came in full costumes and

gave us a show of dance, song and rituals.

They also explained how each piece of clothing was worn and how it reflected

their social status or rank. Men from the upper class or the kadangyan wear

elaborate headdresses made of rooster feathers while their women have bands

of designs on their skirts. They even played musical instruments such as

flutes and ganghas or brass gongs.

This sampler showed us how colorful, unique and intricate their culture is, just

like the patterns of their dress.

Earlier this year, the PTA together with the National Youth Commission

launched a series of travel packages specially designed for students. This

project dubbed as Barkadahan sa Turismo, aims to make local tourism

affordable and enjoyable to the youth. The other travel destinations include

Pagsanjan and the Hundred Islands.