PUERTO GALERA: A galleon of surprises

When the fresh morning sun greeted us at the shaded deck of M/V Island Explorer on the anchor area, the entire port appeared quiet despite the continued influx of fishermen and traders on routine transaction.

Bancas busily moved back and forth after loading and unloading goods for island residents and guests. The banyeras (huge wash basins) filled with the sea bounty, were being dragged to the shoreline where market traders took their time selecting merchandise for the day’s meal.

Small children tread barefoot on the clear, pristine coastal waters as their mothers help roll off fishing nets.

From a distance, we can smell dried fish cooking and the aroma of “barako” (Batangas brewed coffee) from a nearby carinderia. It’s breakfast time.

The entire scenery is reminiscent of the early years of Puerto Galera, site of the first provincial capitol of Mindoro Island. It was where the center of trade and commerce concentrated after Galera was founded in 1572.

According to historians, Puerto Galera or “Port of Galleons” was a place of refuge for Spanish vessels when the island was hit by typhoons. It later became a re-supply point for seafarers crossing the Pacific.

Today, Galera is a premier tourist destination known worldwide for its wide sand beaches and fascinating dive spots. Surprisingly, the heavy influx of tourists and traders in the island has not spoiled the natural setting. Credit goes to the combined efforts of the local government and residents. Except for the development in term of infrastructure in the resort areas and business centers, the rest of the Kingdom of Galera remains unexploited.

Located some 160 kilometers from Manila, Puerto Galera is known as a premier dive destination both by locals and foreigners.

Because of its proximity to Metro Manila, it has become a habitual hideaway for scuba enthusiasts as well as ordinary sea-lovers. The accessibility of transportation with ferries available 24 hours from Batangas Pier, made Galera closer to their hearts.

American Rourke Early, manager of Scubaworld-Puerto Galera, says that there are at least 45 known diver sites strategically located around the island. And Puerto Galera is situated near the Verde Island passage, its waters are often heavily affected by strong current from the South China Sea.

Visiting scuba divers always look forward to an exciting drift dive triggered by sweeping underwater current, sometimes even reaching six knots. Large tropical fish like tuna, jacks, and even sharks abound the current-prone spots, since they are established feeding areas among marine creatures.

After a pre-dive safety briefing by divemaster Neyney Guevarra, our group proceeded with a 7 a.m. dive in the popular West Escarceo Point. Divers were told to level off at a maximum depth of 110 ft. Huge waves were beginning to rock the boat as we prepared for entry.

Based on the boatman’s estimate, the current was just about four knots. Just the same, we took that determined back roll entry for the authentic Galera marine encounter.

Visibility was not that impressive although the volume of fish was astounding. Schools of Butterfly, Basslet, Moorish Idol, and Scorpion fish glided around, undisturbed. Thick layers of soft and hard corals, their colors sharply defined by sun rays, laid from end- to-end.

Orange-colored clown fish guarded their fortress against predators. Patches of anemone held their eggs.

At one tense point, a violet Moray eel peeped out from a small rock opening. But the best part for me was the sight of two dark brown octopi – mating on a rock edge.

There are now at least 27 resorts in Puerto Galera, mostly catering to scuba diving requirements. In 1994, there were only six. Because of stiff competition, resort owners have acquired state-of-the-art diving facilities that include compressors and gear rental. The dive resorts offer scuba lessons in different languages, too.

Just a reminder – resort owners have adopted “dollar-based rates.”

Our group’s next dive was in Sabang Point. Located some 65 feet deep, a dilapidated hull of a sunken Vietnamese fishing boat awaited visitors. While descending, huge batfish and surgeon fish welcomed us, anticipating bare hand feeding. The sensation from a hand-to-mouth feeding with these creatures is indescribable.

A few meters away are the remains of a 40-footer steel yacht which became a home for schools of lionfish, and a perfect scene for underwater photography.

In his three years in Puerto Galera, Early has learned to appreciate the community’s involvement in environmental preservation. Since the area has been declared a marine sanctuary by authorities, the ban on spear and dynamite fishing is strictly imposed. The campaign on cleanliness is now a regular practice.

As part of the peace and order campaign, a 10 p.m. curfew for local minors is also implemented. Loud music should be off by 2 a.m.

“Crime incidents in Puerto Galera are very minimal and mostly petty,” Early said.

For non-divers, other equally exciting recreational activities are available. There’s kayaking, snorkeling, jetski, and windsurfing.

Mountain trekking and bike trails are fast becoming popular in the Tabinay-Talipanan area. Because of the convenience of the RORO (roll-off, roll-on) ferry operations, 4x4 driving adventures are also an “in thing” in Galera.

Let’s not forget the shopaholics since there are clusters of shops for souvenirs, pottery and sculptures. If you get lucky, you may even find antique pieces dating back to the 9th century.