AN ISOLATED paradise is one of two islands that can be reached from the shore of Barrio Bolitok (named after a species of fish found in abundance in the town of Sta. Cruz). Owned by a businessman now down on his luck, it is located in the last town of Zambales and adjacent to the first town of Pangasinan.
The land is lush, with about 250 hectares of hilly terrain. Half of the surrounding coast is bordered with coarse white sand.
The island is called Hermana Menor (literally, "younger sister") by townsfolk and visitors who get there arrive after a 30-minute boat ride. But only with the prior approval of, first, the caretaker Mang Puling and, second, Barangay Capt. Hector M. Minimo.
Hermana Menor sits next to the much larger "big sister," Hermana Mayor, where the land has been parceled off as reward to the owner's loyal workers. People say it has become a self-efficient community consisting of 100 families who raise their own food crops and livestock, maintain a chapel and an elementary school, and observe their own peace and order. Unlike in the other island, a stricter system of visiting appointments is followed in Hermana Mayor.
It was a sunny morning when Sinimahan, a group composed of cineastes and journalists, embarked on the trip to Hermana Menor on the invitation of Sta. Cruz Mayor Luisito Marty, together with the assistant to the governor, Florence B. Alonzo. (It was Gov. Vicente Magsaysay who kindly provided inland transport.)
According to the mayor, early morning travel is better because it is less windy and the sea is calmer.
From the shore, on that clear day, we could sense a hypnotic invitation to go right ahead to the small picturesque isle. Off we went-13 of us, plus the five boatmen and the capitan de barangay-in between burps and gulps of steaming rice, fish daing with tomatoes, meat slices and omelet.
Enthusiasm and anticipation churned within the pits of our stomachs as the boat undulated with the waves and wind. The girls were giggling and the boys were grinning. Florence was smiling, her earlier anxiety over the waves apparently blown away by the salt air.
Ten minutes before reaching the island coast, we could see at a certain angle the two isles, Menor and Mayor, seemingly attached, indeed like two intimate siblings.
The glistening emerald water splashing at the boat was cool and clear. The seabed appeared so near.
On the island
When we reached Hermana Menor, the sand felt good to our feet.
"The graininess is best for exfoliation," commented two beauty-conscious ladies. "Let's bring some home."
Island staff led by Mang Puling came out to greet us and called other workers to gather fresh buko to quench our thirst.
Most of us went off in various directions-basking in the sun, frolicking along the shore, plunging into the water. "You'd think they just escaped the corral," said Florence. "Ah, to be young and free."
A kind driver escorted six of us to the back of an open truck. Florence refused the choice seat in front and insisted on joining us at the back.
We set off on the rocky, winding road, up and down the rugged terrain dotted by wild plants and trees (including papayas), and various crops.
I may sound hackneyed, but yes, the towering coconut trees were swaying, the breeze was cool, and the birds were singing.
At the highest point of the island is a private runway for the planes of the owner and other VIPs.
"Too bad we're not VIPs," I muttered to myself. But who cared? We had our boat ride, which was just as exciting.
Now, halfway in our truck ride, we seemed to have encircled the entire place. Passing through a long, sinuous path lined by thick, tall ipil-ipil and other wild trees and vines, we came upon a fenestration.
"What if," quipped Alya, "a snake suddenly falls on our heads?"
Her friend Ellen blurted out: "Stop it, bruja (witch)! I might fly out of here!"
Alya retorted: "Who do you think you are, Darna?" The trail leads to a big lagoon that used to serve as a fishpond. The driver was quick to say that tilapia was still thriving there.
Miss Universe
Later, we took a peek at Hermana Mayor, which is about 500 hectares in size and more than 30 minutes away from its "little sister" by boat.
You probably remember that in 1974, when the Miss Universe beauty pageant was held in the Philippines for the first time, it became known all over the world as "Miss Universe Island." It was included in the package prize for the winner.
The pre-pageant ceremony participated in by more than 80 candidates was held on the island, taped, presented and viewed around the globe.
The victor, Amparo Muņoz of Spain, spent her summer sojourn on the island during her reign. And since then, a few landlords have reigned there.
We looked at it, seemingly floating in its grandeur, proud yet inviting, separate but not distant.
Then we motored to the island's opposite side, where the landlord's house is located.
The sprawling bungalow is made of red brick, a shingled roof and white-painted walls. Green grass carpets the irregular contours of the spacious, landscaped yard.
The site overlooks the Zambales ranges, where we came from.
We checked out the guesthouse, beside which is a helipad. It is near the beach area, where our friends were lolling in the sun like mermaids with feet.
But before deciding to return, I asked one of my pals to help me gather ripe papayas, with or without permission.
Carrying the illegal harvest in our arms, we spotted two of our companions kayaking at a distance.
Legends
Stories have been handed down from one generation to the next that Hermana Menor is cursed.
The sixtyish Mang Puling said he had been hearing the stories since he was a child. He said one such story, told by his grandparents, went this way:
The island used to be prosperous, but a strong typhoon ravaged it. An old woman bearing a fortune pleaded for help from the islanders, but they not only refused but also robbed and later killed her. Before she drew her last breath, she cursed the island and everyone living on it to a life of misfortune.
Hearing the stories, and the revelation that succeeding owners of the land had been plagued by bad luck, I let my thoughts race as swiftly as the current of the sea. Can it be that even the coast is revealing something? Half of it is made up of soft, white sand, and the other half, of dark, sharp rocks-an interesting subject for feng shui.
But then again, sweet roses bear thorns. Colorful butterflies cause blindness. The brilliance of the sun glares. Water drowns. Fire is beneficial, but it can kill.
Nature has its ambivalence and ambiguity. The creative and wise use of the human mind is required to be able to harness its full potential for humanity's greatest good. If not...
Mayor Marty arrived just in time with an aide to see to our comfort.
It turned out that he had even cooked for us in his own home. "That's one of his good traits," Florence said. "One of his hobbies as ama ng bayan (father of the community)."
Farewell
Our experience on the island, though brief, was memorable and sufficient to serve as provision for one's future travels and solace to his travails.
On our return to the mainland, I looked back and was again convinced that nature had truly provided us everything-the bounty of the sea, the fertile land, the clear air, the life-sustaining sun.
Among the other blessings are the isolated islands, truly havens of peace and beauty that energize the tired body, soothe the restless mind and aching heart, and uplift the searching soul.
To Hermana Menor and its "big sister," it was only farewell, not goodbye.
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