“CARL carabao! Carl carabao!"
Remember that corny soft drink commercial on television where four traveling, insouciant teeners passed through a dark, eerie-looking tunnel? That tunnel is called the Tangadan Tunnel, the official landmark of the Abra province.
Honestly, I can’t recall any other commercial or advertisement that talks about this province up north. I’ve read quite a few write-ups about the impressive provinces in northern Luzon, but Abra is mentioned only in brief since most travelogues focus on the scenic landscapes of the Ilocos province, such as Vigan and Laoag.
I’ve been to Abra a few times to visit my sister, Elaine, who migrated to Abra from Manila eight years ago to settle down with my brother-in-law, Roi Molina, a true-blue Ilocano. During my visits, I’m always amazed how this province exists quietly, tackling day-to-day rural life like a routine. The people are up on their feet by 4 a.m. to tend to their farms or work in the kapitolyo; then they’re off to bed by 7-8 p.m. to prepare for the next day. I envy their simple living and uncomplicated needs. But I easily get restless when I am there, since Abra has no malls, no moviehouses, no Internet cafes.
However, I was in Abra recently and was flabbergasted to see that most "Abranians," young and old, had cellular phones. The text bug had apparently bitten locals.
History
Abra’s history is worth knowing about. The first inhabitants of Abra were the ancestors of the Bontocs and the Ifugaos who eventually left to settle in the old Mountain Province. Other early inhabitants were the Tingguians, or Itnegs, as they are also known.
In 1598, a Spanish garrison was established in Bangued, the capital of Abra, to protect Ilocanos who had converted to Christianity from Tingguian raids. During the British invasion, Gabriela Silang and her army fled to Abra from Ilocos and continued the revolt begun by her slain husband Diego.
The slain revolutionary priest, Conrado Balueg, who fought for the rights of the Cordillera tribes, began his crusade in Abra. After successfully negotiating a peace accord with Balueg’s group in 1987, the Philippine government created the Cordillera Administration Region, which includes Abra.
Abra was formerly under the jurisdiction of the old Ilocos province. In 1818 the Ilocos region was divided into two (Ilocos Norte and Ilocos Sur), Abra became a part of Ilocos Sur. But on March 9, 1917, the Philippine Assembly established Abra as a province.
To be more precise, Abra occupies the western portion of the Cordillera region in the northern Luzon. The province is hemmed in by towering mountain ranges of the Ilocos in the west and the Cordillera Central in the east. It has extremely rugged terrain, with mountains and hills rising along its perimeter and interior.
Sights and sounds
ST. CATHERINE de Alexandria, the oldest church in the province .
It’s a long road from Manila to Abra, stretching some 410 km north through endless, narrow, but consistently smooth, asphalt highway. The trip by air-conditioned bus (you choose from Partas, Philippine Rabbit, Viron Transit and Dominion Bus) lasts some nine hours, passing through Pampanga, Tarlac, Pangasinan, La Union and Ilocos Sur, then turning right after Narvacan.
Ideally, if you leave Manila by dawn, you’ll reach the province after lunch. There are, of course, advantages and disadvantages in traveling in the morning. A disadvantage is you’ll be stuck in traffic in the towns of Mabalacat, Pampanga, then Tarlac, Pangasinan and La Union, but you’ll get to Abra before sunset. An advantage, however, is that the various scenery along the road will make the long bus ride a delightful trip. From the bus some trees could be seen on the right, the great plains on the left and the lights of home in the distance. If you reach Abra by nightfall, you’ll only find yourself straining to see the magnificent mountains and wishing you had begun the trip earlier in the day.
Ideal stopovers in going to north include Sta. Luisita Plaza in Tarlac, and there are rows of eateries in La Union and Candon, Ilocos Sur.
Along the way to Abra, one sees many cliffs, with thick foliage, some standing majestically along the cliffs. But, after several twists and turns of the road, a familiar tunnel greets the visitors to Bangued--The Tangadan Tunnel that says "Mabuhay Arya Abra!” The tunnel lies on the road to Bangued, near the boundary between Ilocos Sur and Abra. This 40-m tunnel has become a popular landmark for Abra visitors.
Culture and living
Abra is a province of mountains, fertile lands, lowland swamps, far-flung beaches, rivers and hills. The entrance to the town proper of Abra is particularly impressive. The capital town of Bangued lies on the Abra River floodplain. Bangued is a busy capital, with its imposing Provincial Capitol and main thoroughfares become clogged by tricycles and private vehicles at certain hours.
The first thing you see on the left, as your car enters Bangued is the impressive façade of the St. James Cathedral which was built in 1722, and a few meters away, is the city plaza and the Provincial Capitol. On one side of Bangued, there are eateries offering authentic Ilocano pinakbet, dinengdeng and chicharron (bagnet), drinking establishments and videoke bars, which come alive at night, during weekends and especially during summer.
Abra has 27 municipalities and the province has a couple of scenic parks. My favorite is the Casamata National Park, with its shrine of the Blessed Mother and swimming pool, sits on top of the hill overlooking the town. My next favorite is the Mary Barbero Park situated in the town plaza of Tayum, five km northeast of Bangued. Surrounded by centuries-old acacia trees, the park offers its visitors man-made waterfalls, a lagoon and a children’s playground
The Don Mariano Marcos Bridge is located at the boundary between Tayum and Lagangilang along the Abra-Kalinga highway. Spanning 886 m, it is the third longest bridge in the country and affords a scenic view of Abra River.
"Resorts are among the attractions of the province, although these are not too well-publicized and only a few have explored these," says Edgardo Domalaon, a cashier of the Land Registration Authority, Registry of Deeds in Bangued. The swimming resorts include Bucay’s Borokibok Resort, Sagsagat Spring Resort, Boliney’s hot spring and Lagayan spring resort.
Abra’s economy is agriculture-based. Its major crops are rice, corn and root crops; and such commercial produce as coffee, tobacco and coconut. Most Abranians are farmers who tend rice in kaingins and rice terraces. They also weave baskets and blankets. Most Ilocano men are also breeders of fighting cocks. Some houses have piggery and poultry in their backyard.
If you’re a first-timer here, don’t expect to avail of a rent-a-car. The only alternative is to hire a private jeep or tricycle, but this does not come cheap. You have to shell out at least a few hundred bucks. And, speaking of cash, there are no Automated Teller Machines in the area. So, you better bring enough cash with you before heading off to Abra. Good hotels in the capital include King David, Oval Era and the Pastoral Building run by priests.
And, if there is a reason for you to visit Abra, it will definitely be the Arya Abra! Festival held each year in March. The province holds this lively, weeklong festival which features street dancing in colorful costumes, and a parade of floats, fresh produced and animals. This is the most awaited event of the year for all Abranians, too.
[ Don Mariano Marcos Bridge Wiki ]
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