Bantayan Island’s retreat for the world-weary soul

n an island off the northern coast of Cebu, a disenchanted traveler can find unspoiled beaches as beautiful as those of Boracay, Palawan, and Bohol, surrounding an old town steeped in history and rooted in faith. This is Bantayan Island, a haven for soul-searchers and sun-worshippers and, for a time, Cebu’s best-kept secret. Enhanced communication connectivity, an improved road network, and a small wellmaintained airstrip for charter flights have opened up the island to the rest of the Philippines. And with the Department of Tourism (DoT) identifying Cebu as one of its eight priority destinations, tourists cannot be far behind.

The name "Bantayan" comes from the watchtowers that were built all over the island in the 17th century to serve as lookout stations warning against attacks of the seaborne Moros. People called these towers "Bantayan sa Hari" or "Watchtowers of the King," in reference to the King of Spain. It became common for the locals to say they were from "Bantayan sa Hari," later, they shortened it to "Bantayan."

The roots of Bantayan town as a Hispanic settlement are unmistakably stamped in its layout, with the old church and its plaza located in the center, and the houses and other establishments built around it. The town plaza and the well-preserved antebellum houses recall a bygone era.

The Spanish influence is also evident in the old Bantayan folks’ religious traditions. On Holy Thursday and Good Friday, Bantayanons hold the "Pasko sa Kasakit" or "Semana Santa sa Bantayan," a procession of life-size statues depicting the passion and death of Jesus Christ, mounted on huge, richly decorated carrozas. Children dressed as angels solemnly follow the carriages, which also bear images of their favorite saints. These statues, hand-sculpted by Spanish artisans in the 1800s, have been handed down from generation to generation.

Yet this somber observance has a curious twist: while the rest of Christianity abstains from eating meat, the people of Bantayan Island do the exact opposite. A papal permission granted in the 1800s exempts them from this duty, in recognition of the fact that Bantayan fishermen do not set out to sea for seven days so as to participate fully in the Lenten rites — their penance for the season.

It is a practice tourists enjoy as they feast with the locals on crisp, juicy lechon, usually served with adobo liver sauce. The key to this scrumptious delicacy is the coconut milk used to baste the lechon as it roasts. One does not have to wait for Lent to taste this local delight, though, as it is available throughout the year. But for those who prefer to observe Lent the traditional way, Bantayan offers an abundance of seafood, fresh and dried.

For the less spiritually inclined, Bantayan Island’s beaches present a welcome respite from the chaos of city life. The municipality of Santa Fe, in particular, is known for its expansive coastline, with fine, white sand and waters so clear one can watch small fish swim and feed. Off the beaten track and without the commercial bustle characteristic of more touristy areas, Santa Fe’s beautiful resorts present more than just privacy; they offer the rare commodity, serenity.

To get to Bantayan Island, one can take a brief thirty-minute flight from Cebu City. By land, one can ride a bus ride from Cebu City to San Remigio, where inter-island ferries to Santa Fe are available. There is also a night ferry direct from Cebu City to Santa Fe.